The Palisades High Peaks Camp

The Palisades region of the Sierra is home to some of the most highly coveted summits in the range. It is known for its fine mountaineering and as a great training ground for alpine ranges of the world. With five peaks over 14,000’ (Sill, Polemonium, North Palisade, Starlight, and Thunderbolt) accessible from one high camp, the cirque at the head of the North Fork of Big Pine Creek has much to offer the mountaineer.

None of these mountains offer an easy route to the summit from the east side, and Sill has, at the easiest, a third class route from any approach, making these among the most difficult of Sierra peaks. For this program we dwell less upon formal instruction in skills and aim to climb peaks with instruction along the way. Therefore we ask that you have basic climbing and mountaineering skills.

Since the approach to the Palisades is long we can take up to two days to get into position at a high camp. If you are feeling strong and fit then we might be able to squeeze in an extra climb, but we have found that is is better to be a little conservative, save energy and concentrate on our  main objectives.

This is to climb North Palisade and Mt. Sill via the Swiss Arête. Other options are Starlight or Thunderbolt Peaks. What we wind up doing depends upon climbing conditions and the desires of participants, the weather and conditions. Whatever routes we choose, you can be certain that this trip combines the best in snow, ice, and rock routes of the High Sierra, with great climbing and expansive views along the way.

For more information about these climbs and the area, check out our unpublished guide to the Palisades here.

The longer a trip is in the mountains, the more vague the itinerary needs to be. It is quite ambitious to plan on climbing three 14ers in three days. But, in a perfect world, the trip will go like this:

Day 1

We will meet, pack, do an equipment check, get packed up and hike to the Sam Mack Meadow. Although this is not so far when you look at the map it is a long first day especially since we are still becoming used to the elevation.
6.6 miles, 3650 feet of gain, 200 feet of loss

Day 2
An early start sees us to the edge of the Palisade Glacier and Gayley Camp by mid-day. Here we have two options.
If we are feeling fit, strong and the weather is settled then we can leave some extra gear at the Gayley Camp and head up to a high bivvy at Glacier Notch to set us up for an early start on Mt Sill.
Or if the two days have left us feeing a little tired we can set up camp here and prep for the climb of Mt Sill the next day.

Day 3

An early start (possibly 4:00 am) for either the Swiss Arête or Starr Route on Mt. Sill (14,154’), likely a 10 to 12 hour round trip.

Day 4

Another early start to climb North Palisade (14,249’) via the U-notch or Thunderbolt via one of the Underhill Couloirs.

Day 5

We plan to pack up and head out, arriving at the trailhead by late afternoon.

Program Prerequisites:

Prior rock climbing experience up to an easy fifth class level is required. We will practice snow and ice skills, but prior experience with these is helpful. Prior backpacking and wilderness travel is beneficial. Prior experience hiking and climbing at altitudes above 10,000’ is recommended. You should know how to tie into a rope and be familiar with belaying. If you are not familiar with these then spend an hour or two at a local gym to get up to speed.

Program Inclusions:

Price includes guiding, permits, all necessary group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear and breakfasts, lunches and dinners (you bring hot/cold drinks and snack items). Scheduled dates include USFS trail fees. Private programs do not.

Local accommodation is not included in the program.

Please Read before you go

We feel the following information is essential... (links open as PDF in new window)

  1. Details, Itinerary, and Equipment List
  2. SMC Cancellation Policy
  3. Suggestions on preparation - get the most out of your trip!
  4. Tips on physical training for your trip
  5. LNT - Let's work together to protect our precious mountain environment.

PDF Maps:

Palisades High Peaks Map

Rental Equipment:

Need to rent equipment for your trip? We can help.