This is one of the classic long gully climbs in the Yosemite high country and an ideal introduction to snow and ice, making for a perfect weekend climb. About 1,200 feet long, it often offers snow and ice climbing on 45-degree slopes. The special features of this area include the spectacular colors of the metamorphic rocks and an incredible view of the Yosemite high country from the summit.
Guidebooks include Secor’s “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails”, and “Sierra Classics” by Moynier and Fiddler. The best of course is “Eastern Sierra Ice” by SP Parker. Also check out our unpublished guide to the Dana Couloir here.
We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000′) just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth would do the trick or better yet, camped at an even higher trailhead, such as the Sawmill Campground just off the Tioga Pass road. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.