Home / All Programs / Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering / Temple Crag Classics
Temple Crag Classics
$1,695
Dates
- Custom trips available at anytime! Contact us to book.
We set up comfortable camp below Temple Crag and climb two of these classic alpine routes in the Palisades area. Route options include the Celestial Arêtes on Temple Crag, Mount Robinson arêtes, and many more. These four days will be filled with as much climbing as you can handle and will certainly be a “dream trip” for the rock aficionado. Any of these routes are also offered individually as a custom trip. Contact us for availability.
Sun Ribbon Arête - 23-pitch 5.9/10a
This is one of the area’s great classics, with up to 18 pitches of stellar climbing, fun exposure, and great position. From the end of the scrambling approach, six or seven fourth and easy fifth class pitches lead to the first real challenge, the first tower, which is passed on the right via an exposed 5.7 traverse. We climb over the tower and descend into the first notch. Above here the route looks very improbable, but we skirt right away from the massive “Ibrium Tower” via a traverse on a quartz ledge. One straight up pitch takes us to a huge jammed block and a great place to relax a while and have lunch. Three pitches, with one rappel, lead up the arête proper to the summit plateau. The summit is a half hour away from the plateau.
Moon Goddess Arête - 18-pitch 5.8
24 pitches of fun climbing complete with a Tyrolean traverse a third of the way up. The challenges start from the beginning with a 5.7 crack and chimney. Above the dihedral, we scramble on increasingly difficult 3rd class to the notch behind the first tiny tower. Six or so superb pitches on perfect rock lead to the Tyrolean traverse.
It is possible to rap/climb the gap but how often do you get a Tyrolean traverse partway up a climb? Plus it makes for great photos. There is spike of rock across the 20 foot gap that calls for ‘western techniques.” Once the spike is lassoed, we clip in with carabiners and slide across to the safety of a horizontal ridge leading to a 40′ rappel off a tower.
We traverse around the corner and to the big notch at the base of the 11th, crux, pitch. This is a 5.9/10a traverse across a steep face out of the notch. The next pitch is 5.8 and leads to more horizontal ridge climbing. At the 15th pitch there is a rappel, another good escape left into the gully. Otherwise nearly ten short pitches leads to the summit plateau. If this one does not tire you out we are not sure what will!
Venusian Blind Arête - 12-pitch 5.7
Venusian Blind is another classic, shorter than Moon Goddess but more continuous. We take the same approach as Moon Goddess then keep heading to the left to gain the next arête. We link together two arêtes on ever steepening terrain. Short jam cracks over blocks typify this section of the climb with ample big ledges to rest and recover on. We continue on the very crest of the ridge for four pitches including one section where the ridge is “missing” for about four feet to one last tower. A short crack that looks intimidating turns out not to be so at all and suddenly it is all over and we step onto the summit plateau.
Venusian Blind Arête is one of the farthest left on Temple crag and, at 5.7, is every bit as good a climb as the others. With only ten or twelve pitches it is less committing than Moon Goddess but a little more continuous.
Descent
For all routes we head down towards the South Fork of Big Pine Creek via faint use trails. We climb over a minor blunt ridge towards Mt. Alice and do a short half-rope length rappel into flat, sandy Contact Pass. For the final section back to the base of the routes we may have snow, which actually makes life easier as it avoids a very loose rock glacier (a rock glacier is a core of ice covered by rock and rubble.) It is still a glacier so it moves, albeit very slowly.
Mt. Robinson Arêtes
The arêtes on Mt. Robinson offer another alpine adventure with mostly 4th class climbing with sections of 5th class. These can be a good warm up for a more sustained route on Temple Crag.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
Day 1
After a gear check and introductions, we’ll hike in and take the rest of the day to reach camp. The approach will take around half of the day, allowing for time to prepare for the climbing days at camp. We have several options for our camp location, which will depend on weather, the season, and availability. But the closer to the base of the routes the better since it lessens the morning commute to the climbs.
Approximate Distance: 5 miles, 2550 feet of gain, 100 feet of loss (dependent on camp location)
Day 2
An early start sees us off for either a warm-up route or one of Temple Crag’s classics. From camp it’s a short but steep hike, mostly on talus but ending with some early season snow climbing to the base of the routes. We usually take just one ice axe, for the leader, but chop good steps and belay for those who are following. From the top of the snow several hundred feet of easy, but roped, scrambling lead to the start of 5th class climbing on both Moon Goddess and Venusian Blind. Sun Ribbon follows a slightly different approach climber’s right of the other two routes. All of these routes descend of the east side of Temple Crag into Contact Pass and back to camp.
Day 3
We can climb another one of the routes.
Day 4
We have the option to climb more on the last day, depending on how tired everyone is. In the morning or after a climb, we will pack up camp and hike out to the vehicles. Our arrival time at the vehicles is dependent on whether or not we climb the last day.
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Jason, Palisase Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
More Reviews
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
Related Trips
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- June 27-29 | July 19-21 | August 8-10 | September 12-14 | October 3-5
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- June 13-15, 27-29 | July 11-13, 25-27 | August 15-17, 23-25 | September 13-15, 26-28 | October 3-5, 11-13
- $1,195
- 3 Days
- May 16-18 | May 30-June 1 | June 13-15, 27-29 | July 11-13, 18-20 | August 15-17, 29-31 | September 12-14, 26-28 | October 3-5, 10-12
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- June 6-8 | June 20-22 | July 4-6 | July 18-20 | August 15-17 | September 5-7 | September 19-21 | October 3-5
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- June 28-20 | July 12-14 | August 16-18 | September 20-22
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- June 20-22 | July 25-27 | August 8-10 | September 5-7 | September 26-28
- $1,695
- 4 Days
- May 23-26 | June 13-16 | June 27-30 | July 18-21 | August 1-4 | August 22-25 | September 5-8 | September 19-22
- $1,695
- 4 Days
- July 11-14 | August 1-4 | August 22-25 | September 12-15 | September 26-29
- $1,295
- 3 Days
- June 27-29 | July 18-20 | August 8-10 | September 19-21
- $985
- 2 Days
- Custom trips available at anytime! Contact us to book.
- $395
- 1 Day
- May 10, 17, & 31 | June 6, 14, 20, 21, & 28 | July 11, 12, & 25 | August 2, 15, & 23 | September 12, & 27
- $475
- 1 Day
- June 21 | July 19 | August 16 | September 6 | September 20