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The Swiss Arête on Neenameeshee, Mt. Sill

$1,295

Palisades
Palisades

Dates

The original inhabitants of the Eastern Sierra called it “Neenameeshee” or Guardian Of The Valley. It is easy to see why once you have viewed it from the Owens Valley. Even close up, although its summit is lower than some of the neighboring 14,000ft peaks, it still looks the tallest.

One of the great climbs of California’s High Sierra, this arete is a great sweeping curve, steadily steepening as height is gained. The route is never too easy and never too difficult, just good climbing high above surrounding peaks and alpine lakes. Spectacular views extend out over the Owens Valley to Telescope Peak above Death Valley, the White Mountains to the east, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks to the south and west.

Prerequisites

You need to be able to follow at the 5.6 level and have experience on traditional multi-pitch routes. Prior backpacking experience is required as is experience at altitudes above 10,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good physical condition and have the ability to traverse broken and uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack. If you do not have this experience, we suggest a day of training with us at a local crag. this will make your experience on the Swiss Arete safer and more enjoyable.

Inclusions

Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).

Acclimatization & Physical Training

For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.

Day 1

As a three-day trip it is necessary to get to high camp on the first day. We’ll usually camp at the Gayley High Camp, below Mt. Gayley at 12,200’. This requires an altitude gain of over 4,000’ the first day; therefore a night or two at altitude prior to the trip will help you enjoy the climb more.

Day 2

The Swiss Arete starts by crossing the Palisade Glacier, which, though small by other mountain range standards, can have hidden crevasses so it’s wise to rope up. Once at the top of Glacier Notch (3rd class, often guarded by a hidden bergschrund where the glacier meets snow and rock on the north side), the route ascends part way up the L-shaped snowfield. One can gain the actual Swiss Arete at many places along the ridge; the further down we move onto the ridge, the more rock climbing we’ll get. Many third class ramps lead from the L-shaped Snowfield onto the Swiss Arete proper but we like to maximize the climbing by joining the ridge fairly low down and make the climb ten pitches or so. Part way up the climb the route steepens and the crux is reached: either a 5.9 move straight up or the famous “step around” move: a long step and reach to the right brings one to the base of a short, steep, 5.6 hand crack. Easier climbing with many variations leads directly to the summit, 300’ above with its fantastic views.

Too soon we have to go down. Descent is via the Starr Route. We descend the ridge some and then turn east onto the shadowed North Face. Some down-climbing and a rappel or lower takes us to the sub peak of Sill, known as Apex Peak. This is the peak that projects from Mt. Sill to the north, just under 14,000’ in height. A ledge system quickly brings us to the top of the L-shaped Snowfield. The L-shaped snowfield has melted out over the years and is often more properly named the I-shaped snowfield. We pick up gear and head on down back over Glacier Notch to camp. We sometimes return to a camp near Third Lake after climbing the Swiss Arete, to get a head start on the hike out.

Day 3

We will wake up and have breakfast on the last day, then begin our hike out. Depending on where we camp the night before, we may arrive at the trailhead between late morning and early afternoon.

Distances and Elevations

Trailhead to Summit Lake Camp: 11 miles, 6550’ of gain, 700’ of descent

Summit Lake Camp to Williamson and return: 6 miles, 3300’ of gain and descent

Summit Lake Camp to Tyndall and return: 3 miles, 2100’ of gain and descent

Summit Lake Camp to trailhead: 11 miles, 700’ of gain, 6550’ of descent

These are big days indeed so come fit and prepared!

Rental Equipment

We have rental equipment available at checkout.

Reviews

Jason, Palisase Traverse

“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”

Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route

“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”

Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress

“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”

Related Trips

Length

3 Days

Technical Difficulty

Technical rock 5.6

Distance

18 Miles

Have Questions? Give us a call and

Talk with our team

Or use our contact form. If you do not hear back from us right away we are likely out enjoying the Sierra. We will get back to you very soon.

Colin Bogdan

Colin grew up hiking and camping via family vacations and the Boy Scouts across 15+ national parks. He still remembers the nervous exhilaration he had when his parents let him and his brothers do the exposed hike up Angels Landing in Zion National Park by themselves. When he joined the military after high school, he thought he would need to largely leave the outdoors behind. He was wrong. As part of his training, he got the opportunity to take part in two month-long NOLS courses mountaineering in Alaska and instead discovered a passion for big adventure and challenge in the mountains. After eight years on active duty and multiple deployments as a Marine Infantry Officer, Colin transitioned to reserve status in 2022 to pursue a career in mountain guiding and moved to Bishop after unintentionally falling head over heels for the Eastern Sierra during a weekend trip. He improved his skill sets as a client of fellow SMC guides Tyler Logan and Louie Allen before earning professional certification from the AMGA and NOLS to begin working as a guide/instructor in 2023. He is proud to now be in the position to call them both colleagues and also help others achieve their goals or experience the outdoors in more meaningful ways. His first love is to climb in the alpine regardless of the medium (rock, snow, or ice), though be assured, he isn’t picky and believes strongly that any day spent outside, no matter the activity or difficulty, is better than a day spent indoors.

Beyond the Eastern Sierra, he teaches three to four multi-week NOLS backpacking and rock climbing courses per year across various locations in Alaska, Wyoming, Utah, and Nevada. When not guiding/instructing anywhere, he works as the Online Sales Manager for Eastside Sports in Bishop, CA; actively serves on the Inyo County Search & Rescue team which covers missions everywhere from Death Valley to Mt Whitney; and, conducts ~6 weeks of reserve duty with the Marine Corps each year.

Allan Giernet

Allen Giernet grew up in San Diego and always had a thirst for the outdoors. Whether in the mountains, the ocean, or the desert – he had to be outside. After several years running the youth snowboard competition team at Mountain High, his longing to get into the peaks beyond the resorts took him into splitboarding. This in turn took him into the Sierras, The Rockies, The Cascades, and more. In 2010, he began teaching rock climbing as an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor in Joshua Tree and other So Cal Areas. In 2012, he founded So Cal Snow Avalanche Center, began teaching avalanche courses with the National Ski Patrol, and began to guide on splitboard. 

  He has traveled all over the west and beyond in search of great climbing and big snow covered mountains to find powder filled descents. But the magical Eastern Sierra will always hold a special place in his heart. 

  Allen currently calls Methow, Washington home in the North Cascades and still spends time in So Cal. He ski guides and teaches avalanche courses in The Eastern Sierra, Colorado, and the North Cascades. That thirst for the outdoors remains unquenched and Allen loves to share this enthusiasm with anyone and everyone out there. When not out in the mountains searching for the next descent, hiking, biking or paddling, he may be found running The Methow Store with his partner in the Methow Valley. Serving up cold beer and great food next to the best put in on the Methow River.

Ian McEleney

An enthusiasm for backpacking was Ian’s gateway into the mountains and soon led to a love of climbing. After cutting his teeth on the rock and ice crags of New England he traveled all over the country making ascents of everything from short roadside rock climbs to big peaks in remote areas. Over a decade ago he discovered that the Eastern Sierra hold a magical mix of amazing mountains and climbing, easy access, and good weather. Now this place is home for him and his family.

Though he loves all kinds of climbing, big walls and winter routes hold a special place in Ian’s heart. He rounds out the year with forays to Alaska, Red Rocks, Joshua Tree, Moab, the North Cascades, and Canada.

Mike Mourar

Mike is originally from Pennsylvania where he learned to ski on the icy mountains of the Northeast. He moved to Northern California soon after high school and received degrees in Outdoor Adventure Education from Feather River College and later Southern Oregon university. He has worked in outdoor education for over 15 years, leading wilderness education expeditions all across the world and the American west. Mike currently ski guides and teaches avalanche education courses in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. He loves to ski steep narrow couloirs on warm sunny days in the Sierras! When not guiding on skis, Mike can be found kayaking the rivers in the Pacific Northwest. 

Heather Shaw

Heather grew up in the Bay Area and has many fond memories of backpacking and camping in the Sierra as a kid. She moved up to Oregon to attend Lewis & Clark College and obtained a degree in Environmental Studies focusing on education and food systems. While living up in Oregon Heather fell in love with the Cascades and began guiding her peers on backpacking trips, cross-country skiing and even local mushroom foregoing. Following her passion for guiding and the outdoors she spent the summers guiding children on backpacking trips and adults in sea kayaking. Heather enjoyed living in the Portland area, skiing on Mount Hood and doing lots of cycling but eventually she decided it was time to come back to sunny California. For the past couple of years she has been spending summers and fall in California guiding students in backpacking, river trips and day hikes. She is excited about guiding backpacking trips in the Eastern Sierra this summer. Heather is a Wilderness First Responder and Leave No Trace Trainer.

Robert "SP" Parker

Robert “SP” Parker, hails from the picturesque landscapes of New Zealand. His journey into the realm of mountaineering began during his days at the University of Auckland, where he delved into the world of climbing alongside the university tramping club (akin to “backpacking” for our American counterparts).

He relocated to Yosemite Valley in 1979. He traveled the US climbing in all the great places: Yosemite, Tuolumne, Colorado, Joshua Tree, Devils Tower, Canada. In 1996, he joined forces with Todd Vogel to found Sierra Mountain Center. SP has over 40 years of full-time professional mountain guiding experience. He has earned IFMGA certification in Rock, Ski, and Alpine disciplines and has served as a past director of the AMGA.

As the torch of ownership at SMC passes into the capable hands of Emma, his passion for guiding in the breathtaking Sierra region continues to burn bright, and he eagerly supports Emma in her new role.

Larry Gumina

Larry is a native of the New Jersey shore. Raised as an ocean lover, Larry spent his early days surfing and being in the water as much as he could. Through an active involvement in scouting, as well as an adventurous friend group, Larry found a passion for the mountains. Naturally, this passion had him trade his surfboard for a snowboard, and he went west! Larry graduated from the University of Colorado Boulder with degrees in Environmental Studies as well as Atmospheric and Oceanic Circulation. In Colorado, he fell more in love with the mountains. After graduating, Larry moved to Alaska to explore the wilderness of the last frontier through backpack and canoe guiding. When COVID struck and found Larry abroad in Central America, he came back to the states hoping to get back to Alaska, but discovered the Sierra along the way. And the high peaks and the fairer climate of California was as far as he made it. Larry now resides here in Bishop, where he spends his time exploring the mountains via roped climbing, splitboarding, and hiking. When not guiding, Larry enjoys traveling and climbing the high, glaciated peaks of Central and South America. Larry’s favorite trip to lead in the Sierra is the Bishop to Mammoth backpack as the variety of the terrain offers tremendous opportunities for natural and human history studies! Larry holds a certification as a Wilderness First Responder, a Leave No Trace Trainer, and a AIARE Level I.

Louie Allen

Louie began guiding with Sierra Mountain Center in 2015 after falling in love with the people and places of Bishop, CA, and the Sierra Nevada mountains.  He grew up climbing and backpacking in the southeastern US and moved West to pursue bigger mountainous terrain.  He is a passionate and dedicated climber in all of its forms and has backpacked extensively across the Sierra.  It is a joy for him to share his favorite peaks and trails with visitors.  Louie is an equal-opportunity cookie lover and die-hard Cincinnati Bengals football fan.  He travels to the eastern US often in order to pursue world-class rock and ice climbs, but always finds his way back to the Sierra.

Louie is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide and is pursuing Alpine Guide certification.  He holds an MS in Recreation and Sport Sciences and a Graduate Certificate in Sport Coaching.  He works as a guide, strength trainer, and climbing coach to help developing climbers and hikers achieve meaningful goals in the mountains.

Anouk Erni

Anouk grew up on the glaciers and peaks of Switzerland where her family is from and currently resides. Anouk has had an appreciation for the elevated outdoors from an early age. She has lived in Europe, America’s east coast, and finally, she came to the west coast in her teens, and never left. Even though she calls the Eastern Sierra her home, she began her guiding career in the Pacific Northwest, where she worked on glaciated peaks such as Mt Rainier and Mt Baker, and rock guided during the summers. However, having learned to rock climb in California and frequenting the Eastern Sierra during her years living in Los Angeles, she ultimately returned to California eight years ago and has been guiding here year round. In the summers, Anouk guides rock and alpine trips, and during the winter seasons, she ski guides and teaches avalanche courses. She sees her guide work as a way to increase and infuse passion and knowledge into the outdoor community – her way of giving back after having been fortunate enough to receive solid mentorship during her initial years climbing in California.

 

Anouk is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Apprentice Ski Guide, and Apprentice Alpine Guide, as well as an AIARE avalanche course leader and AAI course leader.

Dave Stimson

Dave is originally from Alberta, Canada, but has traded in his Canadian passport for his American one, lured by clean Sierra granite and perfect California weather. He graduated from Mount Royal University in 2007 with an undergrad in Ecotourism & Outdoor Leadership and has been working ever since as a ski patroller and avalanche forecaster in Canada during the winters. Dave has been climbing since 2003 and has climbed in Squamish, the Canadian Rockies, The Bugaboos, the Tetons, Red Rock, Indian Creek and Peru, to name a few destinations. His first time climbing in California was in 2103 in Yosemite Valley and was instantly in love. He has been with the SMC team since 2015 and is excited to continue climbing and guiding in the Range of Light. 

Dave holds a Wilderness First Responder certification, and a Canadian Avalanche Association Level 2. He began the AMGA program in 2014 and has become a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide.

Emma Gasman

Emma joined the Sierra Mountain Center team in early 2021 as the Program Director. Fast forward almost three years, and she has now taken the reins, becoming the proud owner of the company previously helmed by the legendary Robert “SP” Parker. Emma is passionate about making the marvels of the mountains accessible to individuals of all skill levels. Emma grew up backpacking and skiing in the western Sierra Nevada, where her personal connection to these majestic landscapes began. While attending college in Oregon she discovered rock climbing and skiing touring, which ultimately led her to the Eastern Sierra. Emma is ready to carry forward the rich legacy established by SP back in the 1990s, eager to nurture and expand upon the successes of the company.

Barb Bemis

Barb began working for SMC in the summer of 2016 as a backpacking and climbing guide. After 4 summers, she began working as an adaptive sports instructor and program coordinator with Disabled Sports Eastern Sierra in Mammoth Lakes. Fast forward to 2024 and Barb is back in the office at SMC. She enjoys organizing all the trip details and other behind-the-scenes tasks to help guests get outside and enjoy the Eastern Sierra. She has always been involved in the outdoors in a variety of ways: hiking, climbing, mountain biking, running, and more. Moving to the Eastern Sierra was a great choice!