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The Swiss Arête on Neenameeshee, Mt. Sill
$1,295


Dates
- June 20-22 | July 25-27 | August 8-10 | September 5-7 | September 26-28
The original inhabitants of the Eastern Sierra called it “Neenameeshee” or Guardian Of The Valley. It is easy to see why once you have viewed it from the Owens Valley. Even close up, although its summit is lower than some of the neighboring 14,000ft peaks, it still looks the tallest.
One of the great climbs of California’s High Sierra, this arete is a great sweeping curve, steadily steepening as height is gained. The route is never too easy and never too difficult, just good climbing high above surrounding peaks and alpine lakes. Spectacular views extend out over the Owens Valley to Telescope Peak above Death Valley, the White Mountains to the east, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks to the south and west.
Prerequisites
You need to be able to follow at the 5.6 level and have experience on traditional multi-pitch routes. Prior backpacking experience is required as is experience at altitudes above 10,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good physical condition and have the ability to traverse broken and uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack. If you do not have this experience, we suggest a day of training with us at a local crag. this will make your experience on the Swiss Arete safer and more enjoyable.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
Day 1
As a three-day trip it is necessary to get to high camp on the first day. We’ll usually camp at the Gayley High Camp, below Mt. Gayley at 12,200’. This requires an altitude gain of over 4,000’ the first day; therefore a night or two at altitude prior to the trip will help you enjoy the climb more.
Day 2
The Swiss Arete starts by crossing the Palisade Glacier, which, though small by other mountain range standards, can have hidden crevasses so it’s wise to rope up. Once at the top of Glacier Notch (3rd class, often guarded by a hidden bergschrund where the glacier meets snow and rock on the north side), the route ascends part way up the L-shaped snowfield. One can gain the actual Swiss Arete at many places along the ridge; the further down we move onto the ridge, the more rock climbing we’ll get. Many third class ramps lead from the L-shaped Snowfield onto the Swiss Arete proper but we like to maximize the climbing by joining the ridge fairly low down and make the climb ten pitches or so. Part way up the climb the route steepens and the crux is reached: either a 5.9 move straight up or the famous “step around” move: a long step and reach to the right brings one to the base of a short, steep, 5.6 hand crack. Easier climbing with many variations leads directly to the summit, 300’ above with its fantastic views.
Too soon we have to go down. Descent is via the Starr Route. We descend the ridge some and then turn east onto the shadowed North Face. Some down-climbing and a rappel or lower takes us to the sub peak of Sill, known as Apex Peak. This is the peak that projects from Mt. Sill to the north, just under 14,000’ in height. A ledge system quickly brings us to the top of the L-shaped Snowfield. The L-shaped snowfield has melted out over the years and is often more properly named the I-shaped snowfield. We pick up gear and head on down back over Glacier Notch to camp. We sometimes return to a camp near Third Lake after climbing the Swiss Arete, to get a head start on the hike out.
Day 3
We will wake up and have breakfast on the last day, then begin our hike out. Depending on where we camp the night before, we may arrive at the trailhead between late morning and early afternoon.
Distances and Elevations
Trailhead to Summit Lake Camp: 11 miles, 6550’ of gain, 700’ of descent
Summit Lake Camp to Williamson and return: 6 miles, 3300’ of gain and descent
Summit Lake Camp to Tyndall and return: 3 miles, 2100’ of gain and descent
Summit Lake Camp to trailhead: 11 miles, 700’ of gain, 6550’ of descent
These are big days indeed so come fit and prepared!
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Jason, Palisase Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
More Reviews
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
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