Home / All Programs / Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering / Charlotte Dome via the South Face
Charlotte Dome via the South Face
$1,295
Dates
- June 28-20 | July 12-14 | August 16-18 | September 20-22
Charlotte Dome is a large granite dome rising out of the Bubbs Creek drainage, a tributary of the Kings River, in Kings Canyon National Park. Reminiscent of the famous rock of Tuolumne Meadows, the dome is legendary for the quality of its climbing and its amazing setting. With views out to much of the southern High Sierra, including Mt. Brewer and much of the Great Western Divide, it is indeed a spectacular and rewarding climb. Some twelve pitches in length, the route has but a couple of 5.8 moves with the majority of pitches in the 5.7 or easier range. We are going to stick our biased necks out here and say that we believe Charlotte Dome to be the best route of its grade in North America.
Prerequisites
You need to be able to follow at the 5.8 level and have experience on traditional multi-pitch routes. Prior backpacking experience is required as is experience at altitudes above 12,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good physical condition and have the ability to traverse broken and uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
The approach is via Kearsarge Pass; perhaps the easiest of East Side passes (which doesn’t make it “easy”). In five miles, the trail gains just under 2,000 feet as it climbs to the pass. We usually arrive at the pass late morning. Views are stunning as the trail descends past Bullfrog Lake to Charlotte Lake, with a lunch stop on the way. Travel becomes more difficult after Charlotte Lake as the trail is un-maintained from this point. Usually there’s a pretty good use trail up to the last forty-five minutes of travel, which can be bushwhacking. Camp is in a beautiful spot though, right at the base of the descent route with a small creek nearby and great views across Bubbs Creek Canyon to the peaks of the southern High Sierra.
The second day sees us up before light and crossing huge granite slabs to the base of the climb early. It’s second-class to the rope up point. The route itself is twelve or so pitches in length, never too difficult but also with no easy pitches. Average difficulty is probably 5.7. Route finding is a challenge and we’ll definitely be earning our keep as we wander up the great south face of Charlotte Dome. Some stances are small and semi hanging, although hanging on a slab is not too bad. The ominously named “Slot” is not too bad and the penultimate pitch called the ‘Furrows’ is certainly unique, with deep solution pocket and fins offering distinctly weird climbing to the final wandering slab. The summit is surprisingly tiny, with room for two, and offers stunning views in all directions of the Kings Canyon region. The descent back to camp takes about an hour and has a short section of third class off the top but is otherwise very easy. Often we rest at camp for an hour or so, then pack up and head to Charlotte Lake, arriving just in time for dinner and early to bed. This takes the hard part of the return hike out of the way and makes the last day a cruise. We’re usually out to the cars on the third day by lunchtime.
Distances and Elevations
Trailhead to camp below the dome: 11.2 miles, 3000’ of gain, 2700’ of descent
Camp to summit to camp at Charlotte Lake: 3.9 miles, 2750’ of gain, 1500’ of descent
Charlotte Lake camp to trailhead: 8.3 miles, 1550’ of gain, 2700’ of descent
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Jason, Palisase Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
More Reviews
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
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