Home / All Programs / Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering / Mt Conness via the North Ridge
Mt Conness via the North Ridge
$475


Dates
- June 21 | July 19 | August 16 | September 6 | September 20
There are only a few High Sierra backcountry climbs that are reasonable to do in a day car to car and this is one of our favorites. A beautiful initial hike to the start of the route past sparkling lakes and high alpine tundra and meadows takes us to the saddle between North Peak and Mt Conness. Once on the route, great climbing leads to the summit, with views of Tuolumne Meadows and beyond. From the summit, we descend via a use trail back to the cars.
Prerequisites
You should be in good physical condition, have some backpacking experience and have the ability to traverse broken uneven slopes with a moderate pack. Prior experience at altitudes above 10,000’ is recommended. You need to be able to follow at the 5.6 level and have experience on multi pitch routes.
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
This is a one day climb. We meet early and plan on a 10 to 12 hour day round trip. We meet at the Saddlebag Lake parking area, trying to get going pretty early for the climb, often at first light, depending on the time of year.
We approach via the Saddlebag Lake Trail as it traverses around the lake for a mile before flattening out at the head of the lake near Greenstone Lake. We continue past small lakes and tarns, steadily climbing towards a pass between Mt Conness and North Peak. As we near the pass the route steepens and becomes loose and sandy. Soon after, we reach the pass and are at the start of the ridge.
Once on the ridge the going gets progressively more difficult until finally we rope up, staying that way until the top. We first top out on a small tower and then do a short rappel to gain the main ridge section. Much of this portion is fourth class but several sections in the middle offer mid fifth class, as well as some interesting possible variations near the top. Overall, plan on several hours of fourth class and half a dozen pitches of fifth class climbing. A use trail from the summit leads back to our trailhead. The round trip can take anywhere from eight to twelve hours.
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Jason, Palisase Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
More Reviews
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
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