Home / All Programs / Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering / Bear Creek Spire via North Arête and NE Ridge
Bear Creek Spire via North Arête and NE Ridge
$1,295
Dates
- June 6-8 | June 20-22 | July 4-6 | July 18-20 | August 15-17 | September 5-7 | September 19-21 | October 3-5
As ascent of Bear Creek Spire provides one of the finest views in the central Sierra from start to finish. The Northeast Ridge offers fourth-class climbing, with a spectacular ridge traverse to the summit. The shady North Buttress is best climbed in the summer and offers 5.8 climbing before joining the Northeast Ridge.
North Arête - 5.8
Most of the climbing on the initial part of the arete is 5.7. About halfway up a short steep area is reached and is passed via a 5.8 chimney/crack pitch. This is followed by an interesting pitch with a tunnel move, which leads to easier fourth-class terrain. We briefly move off the summit ridge onto the west side before the final 40 feet to the top. The actual summit is typical of many Sierra peaks. A monolithic block with no cracks and plenty of exposure. Luckily the summit register is below this final obstacle. The descent begins with one long rappel and then a simple scramble back to the base. Usually, there is quite a bit of easy snow on the return.
NE Ridge - 5.4
The climbing on this ridge is a lot easier than the North Arete, which it joins a few hundred feet below the summit. From the moraine we turn left and head over to Peppermint Col at just below 13,000’, overlooking beautiful Spire Lake in the Pine Creek drainage. We rope up here and move through increasingly difficult third and fourth-class terrain as the ridge gradually steepens and narrows. Occasional belays and easy stretches make up most of the climb. The upper ridge is certainly exposed, but the views over the valleys and desert should be more than enough to distract you. We do the same maneuvers to gain the summit and descend the same way as the North Arete.
Prerequisites
You should be in good physical condition, have prior backpacking and outdoor climbing experience. We strongly recommend prior experience traversing loose uneven slopes with a moderate pack. Experience at altitudes above 10,000’ is required. More specifically:
- North Arête: Prior experience climbing at the 5.8 level and prior experience on multi-pitch routes.
- Northeast Ridge: Prior experience with roped climbing, as well as ice axe and crampon use.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
Day 1
The approach begins at Little Lakes Valley in Rock Creek Canyon. The trailhead elevation is just over 10,000 feet, offering a bit of a head start on the approach when compared with the other climbs in the Eastern Sierra that can start from the low desert. Our approach follows a maintained trail for the first two miles to Long Lake. Here we take a minor trail up Treasure Lakes Gully to stunningly beautiful Treasure Lakes. We then climb over a small dome and drop down to our camp at Dade Lake at 11,500 feet.
Day 2
In the morning we climb a little less than a mile and just over 1,000 feet, with the final short section over a small snowfield, to reach the point where our routes diverge. Just before the snowfield, there is a small moraine where we can leave extra equipment before embarking on our chosen route.
Once back at our gear after either climb, we descend the rest of the way to camp to enjoy our last evening in the mountains.
Day 3
After a leisurely breakfast, we pack up and hike back to our cars. We plan to be at the trailhead around lunchtime.
Distances and Elevations
Trailhead to camp: 4.5 miles, 1750’ of gain, 200’ of descent
Camp to summit to camp: 2.6 miles, 2200’ of gain, 2200’ of descent
Camp to trailhead: 4.5 miles, 200’ of gain, 1750’ of descent
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Jason, Palisase Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
More Reviews
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
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