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Mt. Whitney via the East Face
$1,295
Dates
- June 27-29 | July 19-21 | August 8-10 | September 12-14 | October 3-5
This is the classic route up Mt Whitney, the highest peak in the lower forty-eight states. The 2,000-foot-high face is rated 5.6, but do not underestimate it! You will be at over 14,000 feet carrying a small pack with the essentials for the day, and ascending about 12 pitches of continuous climbing.
Prerequisites
You need to be able to follow at the 5.8 level and have experience on traditional multi-pitch routes (this level is harder than the rating of the route, but you will be at elevation, climbing with a pack and moving steadily for a good part of the day). Prior backpacking experience is required as is experience at altitudes above 12,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good physical condition and have the ability to traverse broken and uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack. If you do not have this experience, we suggest a day of training with us at a local crag. This will make your experience on the East Face safer and more enjoyable.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
Day 1
Our hike in begins at the Whitney Portal trailhead, which is the same trailhead as for the main Whitney Trail. This is one of the busier trailheads in the Eastern Sierra so expect some company at the parking area—sometimes quite a bit of company.
We start on the Whitney Trail but after thirty minutes or so leave this for the relative solitude of the Mountaineer’s Trail. This is a steep, seldom maintained route with sections of scrambling, boulder-hopping, and loose terrain. We usually reach Lower Boy Scout Lake (10,300’) in time for lunch and gain Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,200’) by mid afternoon.
We take a good rest there and gather strength for the final hour push to camp Iceberg Lake. This is a very hard day with a gain of over 4,000’.
Day 2
This is the original climbing route on the mountain and is one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. (For more info see Secor’s Peaks, Passes, and Trails and Steck/Roper’s 50 Classic Climbs.) Classic more for its history than the quality of the climbing, this route is mostly third class, with several notable exceptions. For our summit attempt we often get up quite early (4am or so) depending on the weather and how many climbers are in the area. We make our way past Iceberg Lake on increasingly steep scrambling, eventually arriving at the roping up point at about 13,200′.
The first pitch is the famous Tower Traverse—not too difficult but surprisingly exposed (this will wake you up if you’re not already). Shortly after this pitch we arrive at the start of the three pitches that take us up the Washboard, a third class stretch of climbing.
The sixth or seventh pitch is the Fresh Air Traverse. It’s fun to think back to the first ascent party who had hemp ropes, klettershoes, and pitons for protection. The moves are still stout today and many folks are happy to call this pitch 5.7 but at sea level you’d probably call it 5.4. A couple of chimney pitches lead to the Giant Staircase.
We head up this and soon reach the final summit blocks. This is one of those rare routes that ends right on the summit; we un-rope on the very top.
We descend via the Mountaineers Route to the north. With some fourth class rock and usually a bit of ice or snow it’s not a giveaway, but the technical climbing is over quickly; an hour or less after leaving the summit we reach the top of the Mountaineer’s gully and it’s all third class or easier back to camp.
Day 3
We return down the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek and plan to get back down to the trailhead in time for a lunch of the famed burgers and fries at the Whitney Portal Store, before heading home tired but satisfied.
Distances and Elevations
Trailhead to Iceberg Lake: 3.75 miles, 4,300’ of gain
Iceberg Lake to the Summit and return: 2.3 miles, 1,870’ of gain and descent
Iceberg Lake to Trailhead: 3.75 miles, 4,300’ of descent
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Jason, Palisase Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
More Reviews
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
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