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Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route

$1,195

Dates

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At 14,495 feet, Mount Whitney is the high point of the lower forty-eight states, attracting mountaineers from across the globe. The Mountaineer’s Route is an alternative route to the more popular Whitney Trail, which is the standard hiking route to the summit of Mount Whitney. Over the years, the Mountaineer’s Route has gained popularity among climbers craving a less crowded, more exhilarating journey to the summit.

This is a steep, unmaintained route. Some 3rd and 4th class sections will require “scrambling” or the use of your hands to balance your body as you climb. This can be challenging at elevation and with a heavy pack on!

Prerequisites

Technical climbing skills are not required but prior backpacking experience is required as is experience at altitudes above 12,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good condition and have the ability to traverse broken uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack. Prior experience hiking off trail, at elevation, is recommended.

Inclusions

Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).

What to Expect

Expect to carry up to 35-40 pounds. The trail to base camp is steep, with lots of step-ups. On day one, we climb the equivalent of over 200 flights of stairs along a varied trail. Prepare physically and approach your mountain adventure with an open and adaptable mindset. Our staff is here to help you prepare physically and mentally.

Acclimatization & Physical Training

For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.

Porters

If you are worried about carrying a heavy pack through challenging terrain, we have porters available to help. Reach out to our office before or after you register, to hire a porter

Day 1

We meet in Lone Pine for a gear check before caravanning to the Whitney Portal trailhead. Our journey begins at 8,640 feet. We follow the primary Whitney Trail for a short distance, before veering onto the North Fork Route. This rugged and unmaintained route presents a challenging path with creek crossings and rocky scrambles. We navigate the ‘Ebersbacher’ Ledges, perched above the meandering creek, eventually arriving at Lower Boy Scout Lake at 10,335 feet. Our ascent continues with a steady climb, leading us to our basecamp adjacent to Upper Boy Scout Lake, at 11,200 feet.

Day 2

We ascend beyond the Iceberg Lake, situated at 12,400 feet, and proceed onto the distinguished Mountaineer’s Route itself. During the early season, when the gully retains snow, we may find it necessary to equip ourselves with crampons and ice axes. In contrast, late summer offers a steep but manageable class two talus slope.

Once we reach the pinnacle of the gully, we face a pivotal decision, contingent upon the season. In the later part of the season, when the snow has receded, we have the option of embarking on a straightforward, upward traverse along the north side of the peak, leading us to the expansive summit plateau. However, in snow conditions, we opt for a direct ascent via third-class rock, employing ropes and belays for safety, as we ascend to the summit plateau. We aim to reach the summit around midday, with the entire round trip typically spanning 8 to 12 hours, from camp to camp.

Day 3

Our descent from basecamp takes us back along the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, and we aim to reach the trailhead in time for a well-deserved lunch at the renowned Whitney Portal Store.

Distances and Elevations

Trailhead to camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake: 2.7 miles, 3,100 ft of elevation gain

Camp to summit to camp: 4 miles, 3,200 feet of elevation gain and loss

Camp to trailhead: 2.7 miles, 3,100 ft of elevation loss

*Do not be fooled by the short mileages. Focus on the total amount of ascent and descent!

Rental Equipment

We have rental equipment available at checkout.

This course has been designed to provide you with a comprehensive introduction to the art of winter mountaineering. Our primary objective, Crystal Crag, serves as an ideal base camp location. It offers the unique advantage of being in terrain that remains accessible even during significant winter storms, safeguarded from the threat of avalanches. Moreover, it presents you with an opportunity to immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of the Lakes Basin in the Mammoth area.

While Crystal Crag’s south ridge might be a straightforward climb in the Sierra during the summer months, tackling it with bulky winter gear, amidst a blanket of snow, and exposure to the relentless winds sweeping across the Sierra Crest, transforms it into a formidable challenge. Nevertheless, it’s a challenge that will undoubtedly ignite your passion for further winter adventures.

Guide to Participant ratio

For the first day of this program we maintain a guide-to-participant ratio of one guide for every four participants. This setup is particularly advantageous when rock climbing. However, as we transition to the peak ascent phase, we introduce an additional guide, reducing the ratio to one guide for every two climbers.

Prerequisites

Prior basic rock climbing experience is a prerequisite for this course. You should possess fundamental skills such as tying into a rope and a working knowledge of belaying. If you’re not yet acquainted with these skills, consider investing an hour or two at a local climbing gym to bring yourself up to speed. Rest assured, we’ll conduct a thorough belay skills review before we embark on the climbing portion of the program, and we’ll continuously provide guidance on movement throughout the course. Previous camping experience is also essential, although it does not need to be winter camping experience.

Gear

Snowshoes are the most effective means of transportation for this course. If you do not have them we offer snowshoe rentals. Check out our Equipment list for a full list of everything you will need for this course.

Inclusions

Price includes guiding, permits, all necessary climbing group gear, avalanche beacons, tents, and kitchen gear. We provide meals when we camp together. You will be responsible for your own lodging on night 1. We will camp together on night 2. Please bring your own snacks and lunch for day 1. We will provide lunch and dinner on day 2 and breakfast and lunch on day 3.

Looking for Snow Travel Skills?

Occasionally our guests express a keen interest in learning crampon and self-arrest techniques. It’s important to emphasize that these skills are most optimally acquired through participation in a dedicated spring/summer mountaineering program. The reason being, winter snow conditions often feature deep and soft snow, making these techniques less relevant and practical. However, in the event that both weather and terrain conditions align favorably, we may include instruction on these skills. Nonetheless, it’s important to note that they are best suited for use in firmer snow conditions as opposed to deep powder. For these skills, we recommend our spring Snow Travel Skills course.

While the schedule outlined above represents our preferred plan, it’s crucial to bear in mind that, given the unpredictable nature of winter conditions, adjustments may be necessary. We kindly ask you to remain flexible and prepared for potential changes. Regardless of any alterations, our primary commitment remains unwavering: to provide you with a safe and valuable educational experience.

Day 1

The first day of this course is dedicated to honing essential rope techniques and acclimating to the unique challenge of climbing snowy rock in robust winter boots. Our primary focus is to ensure that everyone is well-versed in the fundamentals before venturing into the mountains. Additionally, we’ll provide comprehensive instruction on the proper use of avalanche beacons and techniques for avalanche rescue. Accommodation for night 1 is not provided.

Day 2

We head our to our basecamp and prepare for our ascent of Crystal Crag. Our journey to the campsite begins at the Lakes Basin trailhead, located just outside Mammoth. Initially, we follow a groomed ski trail for several miles, eventually arriving at our designated campsite in the vicinity of Crystal Crag. Here, we embark on the crucial task of creating a sturdy and weather-protected camp. This phase also includes delving into the finer points of camp life, which can significantly enhance the overall enjoyment of a winter expedition.

Day 3

As we evaluate and discuss the avalanche risk, we navigate our route toward the col nestled at the foot of the South Ridge. Proceeding from this point, we weave through snow ramps and negotiate brief rock steps along the ridge crest, either moving together as a group or in rope pitches, until we reach the summit. Once at the pinnacle, we are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic vistas that stretch across Mammoth, Sherwin Ridge, and extend far into the desert, all the way to the White Mountains.

After soaking in the awe-inspiring views, we retrace our steps, following the same path back to our campsite. As we conclude our mountaineering experience, we dismantle our camp and embark on the journey back to the trailhead, with the aim of returning to our vehicles in the late afternoon.

Rental Equipment

We have rental equipment available at checkout.

Reviews

Jason, Palisase Traverse

“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”

More Reviews

Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route

“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”

Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress

“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”