Home / All Programs / Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering / Mt. Russell via Fishhook Arête
Mt. Russell via Fishhook Arête
$1,295
Dates
- June 27-29 | July 18-20 | August 8-10 | September 19-21
Mount Russell is Mt. Whitney’s next-door neighbor, offering great views and one of the best long alpine routes around. As one of the fifteen peaks in California that are over 14,000’ in height, Mt. Russell is popular, but generally via the less technical East Ridge route. The Fishhook Arête lives up to its name with a lower aesthetic curving swoop that takes four pitches to climb and then an arête direct to the summit. If you are climbing at a solid 5.9 level, this is assuredly a climb that will both challenge and excite you.
Prerequisites
You need to be able to follow at the 5.9 level and have experience on multi-pitch routes. Prior backpacking experience is recommended as is experience at altitudes above 12,000’. This is a physically demanding trip and you should be in good condition and have the ability to traverse broken and uneven slopes with a moderately heavy pack.
Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, and dinners (you bring lunches, hot/cold drinks, and snack items).
Acclimatization & Physical Training
For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.
Day 1
Starting at the 8,640 foot Whitney Portal we hike Whitney Trail for less than a mile before heading up the steep North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The trail here is non-maintained and rough with creek crossings and rocks to scramble up and over. We traverse the “Ebersbacher” Ledges above the creek and climb to the serene setting of Lower Boy Scout Lake (10,335’). Ascending still higher we pass Upper Boy Scout Lake to our camp near Iceberg Lake (12,400’). Hold on to your hats: this is a gain of over 4000’ from the cars and takes most of the day.
Day 2
Another early start sees us heading over to Mt. Russell via the Whitney-Russell Col. We change into rock shoes, leave extra gear below the start of the route and climb the wonderful Fishhook Arete to the summit.
We have two options to start the ascent:
- The direct start is 5.9 and features intricate face climbing to link tiny crack systems. This start starts in the shade and can be cold and chilly.
- The variation start knocks a grade off and renders the route 5.8. This variation has the benefit of being in the sun if the weather is cold.
Both starts meet at a notch where the climb becomes a true arête: narrow and steep for several pitches, this area of the climb is exhilarating and fun. The first pitch out of the notch is superb – steep, but covered in perfect holds and by now the sun has warmed the rock and it is hard to imagine a better place to be. After ten or so pitches of mostly easy fifth class the route ends right on the summit.
To descend we traverse towards the east summit before dropping down a short Class Three gully and then down talus to our gear.
Day 3
A return down the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek gets us back down to the trailhead by mid day.
Distances and Elevations
Trailhead to Iceberg Lake: 3.75 miles, 4,300’ of gain
Iceberg Lake to the Summit and return: 1.8 miles, 1850’ of gain and loss
Camp to Trailhead: 3.75 miles, 4,300’ of descent
Rental Equipment
We have rental equipment available at checkout.
Reviews
Jason, Palisase Traverse
“What a fantastic trip put together for us by the Sierra Mountain Center. From the start Emma was fantastic and professional in the coordination efforts for our Palisade Traverse trip. My son and I had a 1:1 guide ratio and the guides, Dave Stimson and Tyler Logan, were exceptional. Exceptional in their knowledge of the route, their efficiency with rope craft and their trailside manner – despite the exhausting climb we had such a fun time. We are already planning next year’s outing with SMC.”
More Reviews
Chris, Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route
“I went on the Mt Whitney via the mountaineers route with Sierra Mountain Center. Our guide Louie made sure we were safe while helping us reach our goal of getting to the summit. Everything was explained clearly beforehand. I’ve never done rock climbing before and Louie did a great job of providing the needed instruction and coaching. Best of the best – highly recommended!”
Fred, Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress
“Used SMC for a climb of the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney June 17, 2024. Great experience all the way around. Dave was my guide and I highly recommend choosing them for your Sierra adventure!”
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