Introduction to Ice Climbing

$515

Intro to Ice Climbing
Intro to Ice Climbing

Dates

Ice climbing has enjoyed a surge in popularity over the last few years. We are lucky to have ideal locations to learn and practice the skills of this fun activity in our own backyard.

Ice is a scarce commodity in sunny California. Two places that stand out in contrast are June Lake and Lee Vining, on the east side of the Sierra Nevada, near Mammoth Lakes.

June Lake is the ideal location to start learning ice climbing and often we end up spending both days of the course here. A brisk uphill walk leads to the ice; this can take as long as an hour depending on snow conditions. The ice at this training area is up to a rope length high and up to eighty degrees in steepness, with steeper bulges, giving a perfect location to work on the basic movement skills.

After a day at June Lake, our progression continues onto the steeper ice, working on skills necessary to succeed on the steep stuff, as well as anchoring and other aspects of ice climbing.

**Note: Ice climbing is very dependent on conditions and weather. We are planning to run this course as planned, but we will be paying attention to the ice conditions as the course dates approach and will communicate if anything changes.**

Acclimatization & Physical Training

For proper acclimatization, we suggest spending at least one night at a moderate altitude, higher than 8,000 feet, just prior to the start of the journey. See our detailed tips on acclimatizing and physical training in the “Resources” tab.

Day 1

  • Equipment design and selection
  • Ice axe and crampon usage
  • Front pointing skills
  • American and French technique
  • Practice, practice, practice…

Day 2

  • Climbing ice from 50 degree to vertical and beyond
  • Ice screw placement
  • Equipment: placing and removing ice screws, anchoring on ice
  • Threaded holes and bollards
  • Route selection and safe climbing
  • Practice, practice, practice….
  • Where to go next

Rental Equipment

We have rental equipment available at checkout.

Reviews

Amanda, Snow Travel Skills Course

“I took SMC’s Snow Travel Skills course and their 3-day Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineer’s Route trip. The course was detailed and the instructor included a lot of practice time and feedback, plus helpful gear and planning trips. The course allowed me to feel confident about safely completing the Mountaineer’s Route.”

Jaime, River Crossing Skills

“Completed the River Crossing Skills course with Sierra Mountain Center this June, Larry was a great teacher! I learned so many valuable skills in one day, and I’m confident that I can now size up a river crossing to determine my suitability/safety as well as the proper way to get both myself and work with others to get across! Thanks SMC and Larry for a great day!”

Amanda, Intro to Mountaineering & More

“I have done a few trainings with Sierra Mountain Center and I highly recommend them as a training source for all your adventures. Last year I did their river crossing and a mountaineering basic course. I recently completed the mini mountain camp and I had the best time. I learned so much! My guide was Anouk and she was so badass. She taught me so much! I had a blast and I can’t wait to take my mountaineering to the next level. I will definitely use SMC as a future training source.”

Kaz, Winter Mountaineering Skills

“The four-day winter mountaineering course was everything I hoped it would be and more. I nabbed a spot just a week before the trip and Emma, the office manager, was super helpful in coordinating logistics and rental gear for me on short notice. Our first day was spent rock climbing in mountain boots; the second day was spent ice climbing; and the third and fourth days were spent backcountry camping and making a successful winter ascent of Crystal Crag. There were so many memorable moments throughout those four days that is hard to lick just a few to share but I’ll never forget snowshoeing across a frozen lake and climbing 4th class terrain in wind and snow. Our guides—Paloma, Dakota, and Tyler—were incredible throughout the trip and I’d gladly follow any one of them up a mountain again. They provided us with quality instruction in the field and good times back at camp. The guide team also did a great job adjusting the course to suit people of various ages, skill levels, and interests. In short, I had a lot of fun, learned a lot along the way, and believe the course was worth every penny. Thanks, SMC!”

James, Snow Travel Skills Course

“Thoroughly enjoyed their “Snow Travel Skills” course this past Sunday with Larry. He was an excellent instructor who gave us practical experiential opportunities to utilized these skill sets, equipment and increased our confidence in doing so. He was generous in answering our various questions and setting up the slope so we could practice safely what he was teaching us. I look forward to taking the river crossing course in the future as I add to my tools in doing the JMT at some point in my life, and until then, enjoying the wilderness with greater safety. Emma was also incredibly helpful in answering questions, reserving the equipment necessary and even offering recommendations to camp before/after the training.”

Lauren, Snow Travel Skills & River Crossing Skills Course

“Thoroughly enjoyed their “Snow Travel Skills” course this past Sunday with Larry. He was an excellent instructor who gave us practical experiential opportunities to utilized these skill sets, equipment and increased our confidence in doing so. He was generous in answering our various questions and setting up the slope so we could practice safely what he was teaching us. I look forward to taking the river crossing course in the future as I add to my tools in doing the JMT at some point in my life, and until then, enjoying the wilderness with greater safety. Emma was also incredibly helpful in answering questions, reserving the equipment necessary and even offering recommendations to camp before/after the training.”

Related Trips

Length

2 Days

Technical Difficulty

Technical ice from lower angle to vertical.

Distance

1-3 Miles

Mike Mourar

Mike is originally from Pennsylvania where he learned to ski on the icy mountains of the Northeast. He moved to Northern California soon after high school and received degrees in Outdoor Adventure Education from Feather River College and later Southern Oregon university. He has worked in outdoor education for over 15 years, leading wilderness education expeditions all across the world and the American west. Mike currently ski guides and teaches avalanche education courses in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. He loves to ski steep narrow couloirs on warm sunny days in the Sierras! When not guiding on skis, Mike can be found kayaking the rivers in the Pacific Northwest. 

Heather Shaw

Heather grew up in the Bay Area and has many fond memories of backpacking and camping in the Sierra as a kid. She moved up to Oregon to attend Lewis & Clark College and obtained a degree in Environmental Studies focusing on education and food systems. While living up in Oregon Heather fell in love with the Cascades and began guiding her peers on backpacking trips, cross-country skiing and even local mushroom foregoing. Following her passion for guiding and the outdoors she spent the summers guiding children on backpacking trips and adults in sea kayaking. Heather enjoyed living in the Portland area, skiing on Mount Hood and doing lots of cycling but eventually she decided it was time to come back to sunny California. For the past couple of years she has been spending summers and fall in California guiding students in backpacking, river trips and day hikes. She is excited about guiding backpacking trips in the Eastern Sierra this summer. Heather is a Wilderness First Responder and Leave No Trace Trainer.

Robert "SP" Parker

Robert “SP” Parker, hails from the picturesque landscapes of New Zealand. His journey into the realm of mountaineering began during his days at the University of Auckland, where he delved into the world of climbing alongside the university tramping club (akin to “backpacking” for our American counterparts).

He relocated to Yosemite Valley in 1979. He traveled the US climbing in all the great places: Yosemite, Tuolumne, Colorado, Joshua Tree, Devils Tower, Canada. In 1996, he joined forces with Todd Vogel to found Sierra Mountain Center. SP has over 40 years of full-time professional mountain guiding experience. He has earned IFMGA certification in Rock, Ski, and Alpine disciplines and has served as a past director of the AMGA.

As the torch of ownership at SMC passes into the capable hands of Emma, his passion for guiding in the breathtaking Sierra region continues to burn bright, and he eagerly supports Emma in her new role.

Larry Gumina

Larry is a native of the New Jersey shore. Raised as an ocean lover, Larry spent his early days surfing and being in the water as much as he could. Through an active involvement in scouting, as well as an adventurous friend group, Larry found a passion for the mountains. Naturally, this passion had him trade his surfboard for a snowboard, and he went west! Larry graduated from the University of Colorado Boulder with degrees in Environmental Studies as well as Atmospheric and Oceanic Circulation. In Colorado, he fell more in love with the mountains. After graduating, Larry moved to Alaska to explore the wilderness of the last frontier through backpack and canoe guiding. When COVID struck and found Larry abroad in Central America, he came back to the states hoping to get back to Alaska, but discovered the Sierra along the way. And the high peaks and the fairer climate of California was as far as he made it. Larry now resides here in Bishop, where he spends his time exploring the mountains via roped climbing, splitboarding, and hiking. When not guiding, Larry enjoys traveling and climbing the high, glaciated peaks of Central and South America. Larry’s favorite trip to lead in the Sierra is the Bishop to Mammoth backpack as the variety of the terrain offers tremendous opportunities for natural and human history studies! Larry holds a certification as a Wilderness First Responder, a Leave No Trace Trainer, and a AIARE Level I.

Tyler Logan

Tyler grew up hiking in the Sierra Nevada before being introduced to rock climbing as a teenager. Since that time, he has climbed extensively in this same mountain range, including Yosemite (he has climbed El Capitan multiple times) as well as various other crags and mountain ranges throughout the West. Much of this climbing happened during spring, summer and winter breaks while working as a high school English teacher in southern California. After more than ten years in the classroom, Tyler made a career change and began guiding in 2016. He loves being able to make use of his teaching background while working outdoors and helping people achieve their goals. While climbing is his first passion, Tyler also enjoys hiking, backcountry skiing, running, cycling, and a bit of fly fishing now and then. He lives in Bishop with his wife, Mona.

Louie Allen

Louie began guiding with Sierra Mountain Center in 2015 after falling in love with the people and places of Bishop, CA, and the Sierra Nevada mountains.  He grew up climbing and backpacking in the southeastern US and moved West to pursue bigger mountainous terrain.  He is a passionate and dedicated climber in all of its forms and has backpacked extensively across the Sierra.  It is a joy for him to share his favorite peaks and trails with visitors.  Louie is an equal-opportunity cookie lover and die-hard Cincinnati Bengals football fan.  He travels to the eastern US often in order to pursue world-class rock and ice climbs, but always finds his way back to the Sierra.

Louie is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide and is pursuing Alpine Guide certification.  He holds an MS in Recreation and Sport Sciences and a Graduate Certificate in Sport Coaching.  He works as a guide, strength trainer, and climbing coach to help developing climbers and hikers achieve meaningful goals in the mountains.

Anouk Erni

Anouk grew up on the glaciers and peaks of Switzerland where her family is from and currently resides. Anouk has had an appreciation for the elevated outdoors from an early age. She has lived in Europe, America’s east coast, and finally, she came to the west coast in her teens, and never left. Even though she calls the Eastern Sierra her home, she began her guiding career in the Pacific Northwest, where she worked on glaciated peaks such as Mt Rainier and Mt Baker, and rock guided during the summers. However, having learned to rock climb in California and frequenting the Eastern Sierra during her years living in Los Angeles, she ultimately returned to California eight years ago and has been guiding here year round. In the summers, Anouk guides rock and alpine trips, and during the winter seasons, she ski guides and teaches avalanche courses. She sees her guide work as a way to increase and infuse passion and knowledge into the outdoor community – her way of giving back after having been fortunate enough to receive solid mentorship during her initial years climbing in California.

 

Anouk is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Apprentice Ski Guide, and Apprentice Alpine Guide, as well as an AIARE avalanche course leader and AAI course leader.

Dave Stimson

Dave is originally from Alberta, Canada, but has traded in his Canadian passport for his American one, lured by clean Sierra granite and perfect California weather. He graduated from Mount Royal University in 2007 with an undergrad in Ecotourism & Outdoor Leadership and has been working ever since as a ski patroller and avalanche forecaster in Canada during the winters. Dave has been climbing since 2003 and has climbed in Squamish, the Canadian Rockies, The Bugaboos, the Tetons, Red Rock, Indian Creek and Peru, to name a few destinations. His first time climbing in California was in 2103 in Yosemite Valley and was instantly in love. He has been with the SMC team since 2015 and is excited to continue climbing and guiding in the Range of Light. 

Dave holds a Wilderness First Responder certification, and a Canadian Avalanche Association Level 2. He began the AMGA program in 2014 and has become a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide.

Emma Gasman

Emma joined the Sierra Mountain Center team in early 2021 as the Program Director. Fast forward almost three years, and she has now taken the reins, becoming the proud owner of the company previously helmed by the legendary Robert “SP” Parker. Emma is passionate about making the marvels of the mountains accessible to individuals of all skill levels. Emma grew up backpacking and skiing in the western Sierra Nevada, where her personal connection to these majestic landscapes began. While attending college in Oregon she discovered rock climbing and skiing touring, which ultimately led her to the Eastern Sierra. Emma is ready to carry forward the rich legacy established by SP back in the 1990s, eager to nurture and expand upon the successes of the company.

Barb Bemis

Barb began working for SMC in the summer of 2016 as a backpacking and climbing guide. After 4 summers, she began working as an adaptive sports instructor and program coordinator with Disabled Sports Eastern Sierra in Mammoth Lakes. Fast forward to 2024 and Barb is back in the office at SMC. She enjoys organizing all the trip details and other behind-the-scenes tasks to help guests get outside and enjoy the Eastern Sierra. She has always been involved in the outdoors in a variety of ways: hiking, climbing, mountain biking, running, and more. Moving to the Eastern Sierra was a great choice!