Alpine Climbing

The Four by Four

Most of the big climbs I do in the Sierra are thanks to my friend Ian McEleney. He comes up with stupid ideas and I’m dumb enough to join him. Well, payback is a bitch: When I came up with the idea of stacking Peter Croft’s “Big Four” alpine routes car-to-car and back-to-back in four [...]

By |2019-06-06T08:13:59-07:00July 13th, 2014|Alpine Climbing, Rock Climbing|

2 Day Mountaineers Route on Whitney

This week I was lucky enough to get to do our most popular trip in a two-day mega push with Luc Peltier. On our first day, climbing a little higher than usual, we made it to about 12,000 ft.  At one of my favorite spots we set up camp: a set of rock ledges with snow melt [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:23:18-07:00June 6th, 2011|Alpine Climbing, Whitney|

Mount Whitney with a group from Japan

This has been one heck of a spring in the Sierra. One day is a perfect spring day; the next four are full on winter. The snow pack is still not melting and we have had to cancel trips because of the quantity of snow. But we have been lucky on Mount Whitney and managed [...]

By |2016-09-29T20:43:30-07:00June 6th, 2011|Alpine Climbing, Whitney|

The First Mountaineers Trip of 2011

20-22 MAY 2011 Headed up Whitney for the first, but not the last, time this season with three great clients: Heather Krauss, Regina Froemmiling and Aaron Howell.  The forecast looked more like winter than a mid-May spring trip.  I think that we all dressed a little too heavily for the warm sunny weather that [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:23:26-07:00May 24th, 2011|Alpine Climbing|

West Palisades Climbing

Some trips with Sierra Mountain Center seem to have seasonal popularity:  I remember doing trips into the west access of the Palisades 3-4 times a summer when I first started.  A few years ago I did a huge number of summer ice climbing trips, hiking in and out of Mt. Thompson often enough that I [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:23:43-07:00August 24th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Extended Mountain Camp; July 2009

Jason was the "last man standing" for an Extended Mountain Camp from Sierra Mountain Center - the other two clients had canceled for one reason or another.  So we met one early Sunday morning, with a climate dilema.  Thunderstorms had been hitting us with clockwork precision every afternoon, making a lot of the taller alpine [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00August 7th, 2009|Alpine Climbing, Rock Climbing|

East Buttress Adventures on Mt. Whitney

20090714-16.  David and Carolyn joined me for a three day trip up the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney.  We had beautiful weather and easy hiking to Iceberg Lake on the first day. We had a fantastic climb up the East Buttress, with a beautiful sunrise and warm temperatures - We reached the summit in our [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00July 18th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Temple Crag Climbing

Temple Crag / Dark Star is the massive buttress immediately right of the summit / Sun Ribbon Arete is the prominent knife-edge ridge immediately to the left of the summit / Moon Goddess Arete is the next distinct ridge, starting immediately above the pine tree top in the left of the photo / Venusian Blind [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00July 18th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

East Buttress of Mt. Whitney; 29-30 June 2009

Matt and Stacie came up from Oakland to climb Mt. Whitney with me in a blistering two days. This is not for the light of heart: on Tuesday we had breakfast at 3:00am and were on the move until we arrived in Whitney Portal at 7:45pm that evening. While we didn't break any speed records, [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00July 18th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Whitney’s Mountaineer Route; June 18-20 2009

Larry and Mike joined me and our new intern Andy Soleman for a great climb of the Mountaineers Route on Mt. Whitney (14494 ft).  We still had threatening clouds rolling in after noon, so I voted for a 2:00am wake-up.  Since I'm the guide, my vote counted most, and we got up at 2:00am! I'm [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00June 23rd, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Mount Langley; June 10-11, 2009

Normally June is a great month in the Sierra Nevada. But these days one never knows! For 2009 it has been cold with snow and rain in the range. Which makes it great for living in Bishop, but whole lot harder to climb in the mountains. Langley is also generally straight forward climbing to 14,042 [...]

By |2016-12-23T19:52:39-07:00June 13th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Darwin and Mendel; 8-11 June 2009

Paul and I hiked into the Evolutions this week to climb the Northeast Ridges of Darwin (Class 4) and Mendel (Class 3). Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate. The adventure started on Monday when our shorts-and-t shirt approach turned into 3 inches of fresh snow! Tuesday morning was crystal clear, and we excited made our way [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:47-07:00June 11th, 2009|Alpine Climbing|

Rock Skills for Rock Beekers: Buttermilks to Crystal Crag

From 11-14 October I worked with a geology team representing Occidental University, Central Washington University, and Penn State.  They're going to be heading down to Antarctica this winter to collect samples from the Transantarctic Range, and wanted to develop some 3rd-class and fixed rope rock skills.  I had glorious plans of climbing some of the [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:48-07:00October 17th, 2008|Alpine Climbing|

Mt. Whitney in July – a late story

Back in July Braden and I had the pleasure of climbing the Mountaineers Route in just two days with a remarkable bunch of people, the Groff's and Dorsey's.  Monty Groff has a great trip report on his blog, with photos and videos.  I just want to add this link to get people thinking of next [...]

By |2019-06-06T07:24:48-07:00October 17th, 2008|Alpine Climbing|

Banner Peak, Minaret Range, Mammoth Lakes, CA

On 12-14 July I climbed Banner Peak with Matt and John Wylie.  Here's Matt's report of the trip with my photos.  Cheers!  Chris This summer me and my dad decided to climb up Mt Ritter and Banner Peak. Several summers ago we climbed Mt Langley with one of the guides from SMC, Chris [...]

By |2016-12-23T19:52:39-07:00July 31st, 2008|Alpine Climbing|

Chris’ Update for June

The lack of entries in the blog should be an indicator for the reader about how busy Sierra Mountain Center has been this past month. All of us have been moving from one trip to the next with barely enough time to wash clothes, buy food, and give our families a kiss. I’m not complaining [...]

By |2019-02-06T11:17:07-07:00June 30th, 2008|Alpine Climbing|

Mountain Camp September 1-5

This was a custom camp that Malcolm Bordelon put together for a group of friends. Unfortunately Malcolm got sick right before the trip and was unable to climb to the summit of Mt Dade. We followed the usual Mountain Camp itinerary, climbing at Benton Crags the first day and then hiking to camp at Mills [...]

By |2016-12-23T19:52:43-07:00September 21st, 2007|Alpine Climbing|

Black Kaweah with Linda Emerson 8/13-17/07

In a range of mainly granite peaks Linda seems to be collecting the loose ones. Last year we did Devils Crag and other peaks of the Black Divide. This year it was Black Kaweah. Black has a reputation as hard to get to and hard to climb. Not because of any 5th class rating, but [...]

By |2016-12-23T19:52:43-07:00September 21st, 2007|Alpine Climbing|