Mt. Whitney - Via the East Buttress

This is another great route on the east side of Whitney - in fact we think it is better climbing than the East Face route, although a little bit harder.1931 East Face first ascensionist Glen Dawson particpated on this climb in 1937.

The Approach
The hike in begins at 8:00 am at the Whitney Portal trailhead, which is the same trailhead as for the main Whitney Trail. This is one of the busier trailheads in the Eastern Sierra so expect some company at the parking area—sometimes quite a bit of company.

We start on the Whitney Trail but after thirty minutes or so leave this for the relative solitude of the Mountaineer’s Trail. This is a steep, seldom-maintained route with sections of scrambling, boulder-hopping, and loose terrain.

We usually reach Lower Boy Scout Lake (10,300’) in time for lunch and gain Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,200’) by mid afternoon. We take a good rest there and gather strength for the final hour push to camp Iceberg Lake. This is a very hard day with a gain of about 4,000’ so be prepared for this and remember to save energy for the climbing day.

The Climb
A more direct line and more difficult than the East Face Route, this offers technical climbing at elevation on impeccable rock. Some nine pitches of perfect climbing on a thin Arête lead directly to the summit. If the East Face Route is classic for its history this route is classic for its quality climbing and its position. We use the same camp and approach as the East Face Route .

The rope-up point is about twelve feet to the right of the start of the East Face. Several variations are possible for the first pitch, ranging from a 5.8 hand crack to the traditional 5.4 start. Both starts meet two pitches later on top of the Second Tower. A traverse to the right, up a ramp, and we're at the start of one of the best pitches of the route: the spectacular 4th pitch ends at a tiny stance on the very prow of the East Buttress.

The fifth pitch is good too with delicate climbing on the Arête. Four more pitches of mixed face and crack lead straight up the buttress, past the famous Pee Wee Pillar and to the final summit blocks. We join the East Face about twenty minutes below the top, un-roping on the very summit.

Descent is via the Mountaineer's Route, to the north. With some fourth class rock and sometimes a bit of ice or snow it's not a giveaway, but the technical climbing is over quickly; an hour or less after leaving the summit we reach the top of the Mountaineer's gully and it's all third class or easier back to camp.

This is our video description of what it is like to go up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek with SMC to approach the East Buttress.

For better quality video you can go to our YouTube Site and click the "watch in higher resolution button".

This is our video description of what it is like to climb the East Buttress.

For better quality video you can go to our YouTube Site and click the "watch in higher resolution button".

Notes
The best guidebooks are Supertopo's “High Sierra Climbing” by Chris McNamara. and Peter Croft's “The Good, The Great, and the Awesome”.
Get them from Maximus Press.

You can also get our unpublished SMC Guide to Whitney here.

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