The Palisades region of the Sierra is home to some of the most highly coveted summits in the range and is known for its fine mountaineering and as a great training ground for alpine ranges of the world. With five peaks over 14,000' accessible from one high camp (Sill, Polemonium, North Palisade, Starlight, and Thunderbolt) the cirque at the head of the North Fork of Big Pine Creek has much to offer the mountaineer. None of these mountains offers an easy route from their east side and only Sill has a third class route from any approach, making these among the most difficult of Sierra peaks.
For this program we dwell less upon formal instruction in skills and aim to climb peaks with instruction along the way. So we assume a reasonable level of exposure to climbing skills in the past.
Since the approach to the Palisades is long we have taken to using pack stock for the approach. Yes. It is cheating (kind of) but we have found that groups that hike all the way to the Glacier in one day are generally too tired to be able to do anything the next day other than sleep. With the pack stock we can walk with a light daypack and water and snacks to the turnoff to Sam Mack Meadows, a distance of about 6 miles and elevation gain of nearly 3,000 feet. We hope to get here by midday and that leave us about 2.5 miles and 2000 feet to go to camp. Maybe it does not sound like much – be assured it will feel it!
Our primary goals are to climb North Palisade via the U-notch and Sill via the Swiss Arête. Other options are Starlight or Thunderbolt peaks. What we wind up doing depends upon climbing conditions and the objectives of participants. Whatever routes we choose you can be certain that this trip combines the best in the snow, ice, and rock routes of the High Sierra having fun, great climbing and expansive views along the way.
Itinerary
The longer a trip is in the mountains, the more vague the itinerary need be. It is quite ambitious to plan on climbing three 14ers in three days. But, in a perfect world, the trip will go like this:
Day One: We will meet, pack, do an equipment check, get the loads onto the pack stock and hike to the Sam Mack Meadow turnoff. Here we will pick up the heavy loads and head to high camp near the Palisade Glacier (elevation 12,300'). This is a long day but once into camp we have done the hard work and can get down to enjoying the climbing
Day Two: A moderate day, tuning up skills climbing Mt. Gayley or Mt. Winchel
Day Three: An early start (4:00 am) for either the Swiss Arête or Starr Route on Sill, 10 to 12 hour round trip.
Day Four: North Palisade via the U-notch.
Day Five: Head out, arriving at the trailhead by late afternoon.
Notes
  Guidebooks include Secor's “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails”, “Sierra Classics” by Moynier and Fiddler and Peter Croft's “The Good, The Great, and the Awesome”.
Get the latter from Maximus Press.
The best of course is “Eastern Sierra Ice” by SP Parker.
Get it from Maximus Press
You can also get our unpublished SMC Guide to the Palisades here.
While we will climb up gradually with several nights at about highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth would do the trick or better yet, camped at an even higher trailhead, such as one of the campgrounds in Big Pine Creek for a night just before the trip. Glacier Lodge is also a good lodging option. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.
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