Alpine Ice Climbing Seminars

California is well known for a sunny climate and fantastic rock climbing but less well known is its alpine ice climbing. Come summer and fall the snows of the past winter have melted off and repeated freeze and thaw cycles have transformed the snow to firm neve and water ice, often offering straightforward ways to the summits of many a Sierra summit. Success with this type of climbing requires proficiency with crampon and ice axe skills so the goal of this program is to introduce a variety of techniques and put them to use on some good climbs. .

Itinerary
Day One: From Bishop we head west to the the South Lake trailhead and hike into the Treasure Lakes. Before getting to Treasure Lake we head cross country into a small glacial cirque below Gilbert and Thompson.

The approach to camp is about 3-4 hours and we will have time to set up camp and later in the day head out onto the snow to work on skills.

The skills covered will include:

• Ascending and descending crampon techniques.
• French/flatfooting and American technique.
• Ice axe use
• Placing ice anchors
• Multi-pitch climbing skills and belay stance management
• Selection of equipment
• Belaying on snow and ice
• Hazard recognition and assessment

Day Two: We will get off to an early start and ascend Mt. Thompson. This ascent offers some six pitches on moderate snow and ice with the crux being passing a chockstone towards the top of the climb. Along the way we will work more upon skills and saving energy to prepare us for the longer climb on Mt. Gilbert.

Notes
Guidebooks include Secor's “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails”, and “Sierra Classics” by Moynier and Fiddler The best of course is “Eastern Sierra Ice” by SP Parker.
Get it from Maximus Press.

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