Technical difficulty
Technical snow and ice to 50 degrees

Physical difficulty
Strenuous

Length
3 days,
2 night

2010 Dates
July 30-August 1

September 4-6

or custom programs at any time.

Price
$725 per person

Ratio
1 guide : 3 participants for Days 1&2
1 guide : 2 participants for Day 3

Prerequisites
Basic climbing skills combined with overnight backpacking experience with off trail travel.

Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, lunches and dinners (you bring hot/cold drinks and snack items). Scheduled dates include USFS trail fees. Private programs do not. Local accommodation is not included.

RESOURCES
Details, itinerary and equipment list
Read about out Recent Trips

tel. (760) 873-8526
fax. (760) 873-4800
office@sierramountaincenter.com

Alpine Ice Climbing Seminars

Mt Thompson Information

Mt Gilbert Information

California is well known for a sunny climate and fantastic rock climbing but less well known is its alpine ice climbing. Come summer and fall the snows of the past winter have melted off and repeated freeze and thaw cycles have transformed the snow to firm neve and water ice, often offering straightforward ways to the summits of many a Sierra summit. Success with this type of climbing requires proficiency with crampon and ice axe skills so the goal of this program is to introduce a variety of techniques and put them to use on some good climbs. .

Itinerary
Day One: From Bishop we head west to the the South Lake trailhead and hike into the Treasure Lakes. Before getting to Treasure Lake we head cross country into a small glacial cirque below Gilbert and Thompson.

The approach to camp is about 3-4 hours and we will have time to set up camp and later in the day head out onto the snow to work on skills.

The skills covered will include:

Ascending and descending crampon techniques.
French/flatfooting and American technique.
Ice axe use
Placing ice anchors
Multi-pitch climbing skills and belay stance management
Selection of equipment
Belaying on snow and ice
Hazard recognition and assessment

Day Two: We will get off to an early start and ascend Mt. Thompson. This ascent offers some six pitches on moderate snow and ice with the crux being passing a chockstone towards the top of the climb. Along the way we will work more upon skills and saving energy to prepare us for the longer climb on Mt. Gilbert.

Day Three: We head to Gilbert early in the morning since this will be a long day. The approach is shorter than that to Thompson, but the ascent is steeper and often has hard water ice making proficiency and good tool placements a necessity. We intend to return to the trailhead late in the afternoon of day three.

Notes
Guidebooks include Secor's “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails”, and “Sierra Classics” by Moynier and Fiddler The best of course is “Eastern Sierra Ice” by SP Parker.
Get it from Maximus Press.

We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth would do the trick or better yet, camped at an even higher trailhead, such as one of the campgrounds in Big Pine Creek for a night just before the trip. Glacier Lodge is also a good lodging option. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.

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