Williamson (14,375 feet) is the second highest peak in California, behind Mt. Whitney (14,495 feet), but the few feet it lacks in elevation it more than makes up for in difficulty and the work involved to climb it. There are no easy ways up this peak, nor are there any easy ones on Mt. Tyndall (14,015 feet), Williamson's neighbor just to the west. That's the bad news...The good news is that both these peaks are much less often climbed than their higher brother to the south and both offer astounding views and an enjoyable amount of moderate mountaineering.

Williamson's west face route was first climbed in 1903 by a group led by the redoubtable Joseph Le Conte. The route is primarily class two and three, but just below the summit plateau a short steep headwall blocks the way. A short rope length takes us though this and on to the summit. We descend the same way. Tyndall is a far more graceful peak than its neighbor and our chosen route, the Northwest ridge, is a perfect fourth Class ridge. Often in the Sierra the easier routes tend to be loose and very talusy. This ridge however offers great scrambling over huge blocks and narrow ridge traverses on wonderful rock.

For trivia buffs the peak is named for the scientist who first developed a theory as to why the sky is blue. This whole area lies within the habitat of the California bighorn sheep and as such the area is closed to access from July 15 to December 15. We schedule our trips around this to give the last few remaining individuals of these magnificent animals the best chance they can for survival.

Itinerary
We have built one extra day into this itinerary because of the length of the approach. It would be a shame to do this approach and then have to leave without completing the two climbs. Even worse would be to do the approach again! So we can use this as a rest day between the climbs if we need one, as an additional day on the approach to break up the long climb or as a weather day should we be in a pattern of afternoon thunderstorms.

Day One: The approach is a long steady haul up over Shepherd Pass. The trailhead is one of the lowest in the Eastern Sierra and the trail to the pass is about ten miles long. But once at the pass we set up a basecamp adjacent to Summit Lake under the eastern slopes of Mt. Tyndall. The trailhead is 6400 feet and the Pass is 12,030 feet. Plus one has to drop 550 feet crossing over from Symmes Creek to Shepherd Creek. So you see why we might want an extra day to split this up.

Day Two: We head off to Mt. Williamson. We have to climb up and drop down into Williamson Bowl and it's small lakes. (For the fishermen among you, one of the lower lakes is the only stock of pure Colorado cutthroat that were transplanted here in the 1930's to avoid cross breeding with other species which has occurred in their native habitat.) We have to negotiate complex terrain around the lakes and then head up towards the rock band mentioned. Once through this the summit is 10 minutes off.

Day Three: We head off to Tyndall and this is not such a long day as Williamson.

Day Four: Our backup day.

Notes
Guide books include Secor's “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails” and “Climbing California's Fourteeners” by Porcella and Burns.

We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth or camped at the trailhead campground would do the trick. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.

Return to Classic Alpine Rock Climbs