If you have done the classic hard routes on Temple Crag and are ready for the next step up in difficulty this is it. The Third Pillar is one of the most aesthetic and difficult Sierra climbs - perfect granite high above Mono Lake, with spectacular views out into the Nevada desert.
This route has an almost European feel to it and is one of the most aesthetic and difficult Sierra climbs - perfect granite high above Mono Lake, with spectacular views out into the Nevada desert But this is only the appetizer for the main course – the Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk. Ten pitches of stellar cracks, mainly 5.7 to 5.9 with a short 5.10b section that is over before you even start to get pumped.
Itinerary:
Day One
This is the easiest day. We meet in Lee Vining and head to the parking area at the trailhead near Tioga Lake around 7:30. The approach hike takes about two hours and is initially through pleasant timberline forest and later above the tree line on the Dana Plateau.
The plateau is a wide expanse of high alpine tundra and finding the top of the route can be tricky, but we have been here many times before. After caching unnecessary items on the summit a short descent takes us to the base of a huge sweeping slab of rock.
Early season ascents also have the added excitement of a short snow slope to cross in order to reach the start.
The first pitch is a good warm up and is 5.8, with a layback crack. A fourth class pitch follows, then the fun begins. The third pitch is tricky with some route finding issues that slow down parties lacking our familiarity with the route, and is consistently 5.9 and features an awkward wide crack. The fourth pitch also has variations, the easiest having a great 5.8 layback and a chimney. The fifth pitch is usually considered to be the crux, a poorly protected (that's what we're there for...) 5.10 move leads from the belay to easier climbing, making for a short pitch.
The route gets steadily more difficult until you reach the final pitch, which has been understatedly described as "the best 5.9 in the universe".
The climb ends abruptly as one pulls over the top onto the horizontal a few feet away from the cached gear. We relax in the sun some before heading back to the roadhead.
Day Two
A kind of rest day after yesterday’s exertions, we take a leisurely start to the day and then drive to the trailhead parking area at Twin Lakes. This parking area is private land and there is a $5.00 per night fee to use it. With less than 2,000’ of gain the walk to the base of the Hulk is moderate, and we should arrive in camp by lunch. The last bit of the approach involves some talus, brush and a beaver swamp but considering it's less than four hours from the car to camp we're doing ok.
Day Three
We get up early and head for the climb. Expect 8-10 hours on route and an hour back to camp where we'll rest a bit and hike out, which should take less than three hours.
Notes
  The best guidebooks are Supertopo's “High Sierra Climbing” by Chris McNamara. and Peter Croft's “The Good, The Great, and the Awesome”.
Get them from Maximus Press.
You can also get our detailed unpublished SMC Guide to The Third Pillar here.
We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth or camped at the trailhead campground would do the trick. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.
Return to Classic Alpine Rock Climbs
|
