A superb and classic face climb and one of the coveted “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America”, this is a route for the experienced climber. Situated on the sheer south face of the highest of the serrated Minarets, this 14-pitch route seems improbably steep but square cut holds and sharp-edged cracks everywhere allow interesting -and rarely easy- climbing on compact metamorphosed volcanic rock. Route finding difficulties have given this route a reputation but after dozens of ascents we have it "wired"... Climbers who have skied at Mammoth have no doubt looked over to the imposing Minarets and marveled at the imposing and intimidating look of the spires and pinnacles.

Itinerary
There are several options for the approach, but our favored one starts from Soda Springs just short of Red’s Meadow on the Devil’s Postpile National Monument Road. We cross the river and join the John Muir Trail. After several miles we leave the Muir Trail for a much less traveled spur trail that dead-ends at Minaret Lake. We place our camp here and usually have time to carry climbing gear up to the base of the climb.

Even though we gain over 2,000' on the approach it is spread out over five miles and doesn't seem too difficult. In contrast, the climbing day is a tough one.

A predawn start sees us leaving camp at first light and an hour and a half later we are at the rope up point. We have two choices depending upon how bold you are feeling. The direct start is great 5.9 climbing for three pitches. Cracks and stemming make up the majority of the climbing here. The original start is up around the corner a little and traverse in for two pitches setting the tone that remains for the rest of the route: devious routefinding, interesting climbing that is quite unique (especially to us granite-rich Sierra climbers!), and exposure. Belays are usually spacious but the climbing remains continuous the entire route, with several decidedly cruxy sections. Most pitches have some 5.8 on them and we would not be unhappy if some pitches were graded 5.9. Fourteen pitches later we reach the summit, usually late in the afternoon.

After taking time to enjoy the view we descend via the notch between Clyde Minaret and Ken Minaret. Getting to the notch is the toughest part of the down climb and is primarily third and fourth class with several short rappels. The gully back to the base can be rappels if it's full of snow; otherwise it's a scramble down talus. We reach camp late in the afternoon, just in time for a well-earned meal and early to bed.

The third day sees us back at the cars in time for a late lunch.

Notes
The best guidebook is peter Croft's “The Good, the Great, and the Awesome.
Get it from Maximus Press

You can also get our very detailed unpublished SMC Guide to Clyde Minaret here.

We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth or camped at the trailhead campground would do the trick. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info. Bears are also a major problem at the trailhead. Do not leave any food, scented items (deodorant, soap etc.) in your vehicle. Clean up all trash and do not leave food, coolers, or food packaging in your vehicle. Failure to take precautions can cause the vehicle to be ripped apart by a bear and the added insult of a fine from the Forest Service. It is necessary to carry bear proof food storage containers on this trip. We provide these.

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