This is superb and classic face climb and another one of the coveted “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America”. This is a route for intermediate to advanced climbers. We simply cannot rave enough about this route. Sierra Mountain Center owner Todd Vogel calls this route “the best backcountry rock climb in California”, which is saying a lot when one considers the vast wealth of great climbing in our State. The rock and the climbing are reminiscent of Tuolumne Meadows: long, smooth faces that appear to be impossible from a distance but are found to be covered with knobs and texture, allowing for relatively easy climbing. The setting for this climb is what makes it a classic instead of a merely great climb. Situated near the head of Kings Canyon the hike in is spectacular and the views from the climb outrageous. If this route was close to the road there would be a line waiting to start it every day of summer. Instead we will probably see no one and if we are lucky we might spot some of the rare and endangered Sierra Nevada Bighorn sheep that frequent this area. Make sure this route is on your list of “must do” climbs.

Itinerary
The approach is via Kearsarge Pass; perhaps the easiest of East Side passes (which doesn't make it "easy"). In five miles the trail gains just under 2,000 feet as it climbs to the pass. We usually arrive at the pass late morning. Views are stunning as the trail descends past Bullfrog Lake to Charlotte Lake, with a lunch stop on the way. Travel becomes more difficult after Charlotte Lake as the trail is un-maintained from this point. Usually there’s a pretty good use trail up to the last forty-five minutes of travel, which can be bushwhacking. Camp is in a beautiful spot though, right at the base of the descent route with a small creek nearby and great views across Bubbs Creek Canyon to the peaks of the southern High Sierra.

The second day sees us up before light and crossing huge granite slabs to the base of the climb early. It’s second-class to the rope up point. The route itself is twelve or so pitches in length, never too difficult but also with no easy pitches. Average difficulty is probably 5.7. Route finding is a challenge and we’ll definitely be earning our keep as we wander up the great south face of Charlotte Dome. Some stances are small and semi hanging, although hanging on a slab is not too bad. The ominously named “Slot” is not too bad and the penultimate pitch called the ‘Furrows’ is certainly unique, with deep solution pocket and fins offering distinctly weird climbing to the final wandering slab. The summit is surprisingly tiny, room for two, and offers stunning views in all directions of the Kings Canyon region. The descent back to camp takes about an hour and has a short section of third class off the top but is otherwise very easy. Often we rest at camp for an hour or so but then pack up and head to Charlotte Lake, arriving just in time for dinner and early to bed. This takes the hard part of the return hike out of the way and makes the last day a cruise. We’re usually out to the cars on the third day by lunchtime.

Notes
The best guidebook is Supertopo’s High Sierra Climbing by Chris McNamara. Get it from Maximus Press.

You can also get our unpublished SMC guide for Charlotte Dome here.

We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000’) just prior to the trip. Spending a night or two in Mammoth or camped at the trailhead campground would do the trick. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info. Bears are also a major problem at the trailhead. Do not leave any food, scented items (deodorant, soap etc.) in your vehicle. Clean up all trash and do not leave food, coolers, or food packaging in your vehicle. Failure to take precautions can cause the vehicle to be ripped apart by a bear and the added insult of a fine from the Forest Service. It is necessary to carry bear proof food storage containers on this trip. We provide these.

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