< CLASSIC ALPINE ROCK CLIMBS

Technical difficulty
North Arête: Technical rock to 5.8
Northeast Ridge: 4 th class rock with a few 5 th class moves

Rock Climbing - Requires RopePhysical difficulty
Strenuous

Length
3 days,
2 nights

Dates
Custom programs at any time.

Price
Custom guiding rates

Ratio
1 guide; 2 participants

Prerequisites
North Arête: Technical climbing skills are required: you should be able to comfortably follow 5.8. You should be in good condition and have the ability to traverse broken uneven slopes with a moderate pack.

Northeast Ridge: The climb is mostly scrambling so prior experience with roped climbing is helpful but not necessary and the same is true of ice axe/crampons. You should be in good condition and have some backpacking experience at altitude and have the ability to traverse broken uneven slopes with a moderate pack

Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, lunches and dinners (you bring hot/cold drinks and snack items). Scheduled dates include USFS trail fees. Private programs do not. Local accommodation is not included.

RESOURCES
Details, itinerary and equipment list
Map
Read about out Recent Trips


CONTACT US
174 West Line Street
Bishop, CA 93514

tel. (760) 873-8526
fax. (760) 873-4800
office@sierramountaincenter.com

 

Bear Creek Spire via N. Arête and NE. Ridge

 

Bear Creek Spire is a true mountaineer's peak - not easily accessible and providing one of the finest views in the central Sierra. Access is easy and straightforward traveling through the beautiful Little Lakes Valley from one of the highest trailheads in the Eastern Sierra. The Northeast Ridge offers mainly fourth-class climbing, but with a spectacular ridge traverse to the summit. The shady North Buttress is best climbed in the summer and gives up to 5.8 climbing on solid rock before joining the Northeast Ridge for the long summit traverse.

Itinerary
These routes can be done in one day, but we prefer to take a little more time, slow down and enjoy the beauty of the area and the mountain surroundings. The additional time to acclimatize to the elevation also helps a lot for the actual ascent. The approach is via Little Lakes Valley, Rock Creek Canyon. Trailhead elevation is just over 10,000 feet here, offering a bit of a head start on the approach as compared with the other climbs in the Eastern Sierra that can start from the low desert. Our approach is a very good trail for the first two miles to Long Lake.

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Here we take a minor trail up Treasure Lakes Gully to stunningly beautiful Treasure Lakes. We take a break here and then climb over a small dome and drop down to our camp at Dade Lake at 11,500 and a little over four miles from the roadhead.

In the morning we have a little less than a mile and a bit over 1000 feet, the final short section over a small snowfield take us to the start of the climbing. Just before the snowfield there is a small moraine where we can leave extra equipment so that we do not have to climb right up to the base when we return.

North Arête:
Two days, 5.8, Intermediate

This is certainly the classic rock climb of the Rock Creek Region. A beautiful hike in, excellent climbing, and a tiny summit with a great view combine to make the climb one of the "must do" routes of the Eastern Sierra.

Most of the climbing on the initial part of the Arête is 5.7. About half way up a short steep area is reached and is passed via a 5.8 chimney/crack pitch. An interesting pitch with a tunnel move follows and leads to easier terrain that is mostly fourth class. We move off the summit ridge onto the west side briefly before the final 40 feet to the top. The actual summit is typical of many a Sierra peak. A monolithic block with no cracks and exposed. Luckily the summit register is below this final obstacle and unless you're really adventurous you might need to satisfy yourself with touching the true high point with a hand, rather than standing on the top. Descent begins with one long rappel and then a simple scramble back to the base. Usually there is quite a bit of easy snow on the return - plan on bringing gaiters and having damp boots by the time we reach the talus below.

North-east Ridge:
The North East Ridge: Two days, 5.4, Beginner

This is yet another Norman Clyde Classic and a great way to the top of Bear Creek. The climbing is a lot easier than the North Arête, which it joins a few hundred feet below the summit

From the moraine we turn left and head over to Peppermint Col at just below 13,000' and overlooking beautiful Spire Lake in the Pine Creek drainage. We rope up here and move through increasingly difficult third and fourth class terrain as the ridge gradually steepens and becomes more and more narrow. Occasional belays and easy stretches make up the rhythm of the climb for most its length. The upper ridge is certainly exposed, but the views over the valleys and desert should be more than enough to distract you. We do the same maneuvers to gain the tiptop and descend the same way as the North Arête

Notes
The best guidebooks are Supertopo's “High Sierra Climbing” by Chris McNamara. and Peter Croft's “The Good, The Great, and the Awesome”.
Get them from Maximus Press.

We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth or camped at the trailhead campground in Rock Creek Canyon would do the trick. You could also stay at Rock Creek Lodge. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.

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