Ritter and Banner

These two peaks dominate the Sierra Skyline near Mammoth and offer a perfect introduction to the pleasures of Sierra Peak climbing. John Muir was the first to ascend Mt. Ritter and we follow his footsteps into mountains little changed since his days here. Pack stock will carry gear to camp near Ediza Lake while we strike a leisurely and comfortable hiking pace. We spend a day getting our skills in order and then tackle our main goals: ascents of both Ritter and Banner. But as well as climbing we include plenty of instruction as well as simply time to relax and enjoy one of the most beautiful areas of the Sierra. This is a perfect trip for someone who has done little peak climbing but wants to discover the joys of being in the Sierra in the summer and ascending classic mountains in a classic fashion.

Anyone driving Highway 395 in the vicinity of Mammoth has probably noticed these impressive peaks dominating the Sierra skyline. Their spectacular appearance makes them a magnet for the climber, but while they appear impressive they are not unduly difficult to ascend. Noted climber and explorer Clarence King attempted Ritter in 1866 but retreated, calling the peak inaccessible. However the redoubtable John Muir proved him wrong and made the first ascent in 1872. In his book “The Mountains of California” he describes the view from the summit:

“Looking southward along the axis of the range, the eye is first caught by a row of exceedingly sharp and slender spires, which rise openly to a height of about a thousand feet, above a series of short, residual glaciers that lean back against their bases, their fantastic sculpture and the unrelieved sharpness with which they spring out of the ice rendering them peculiarly wild and striking. These are the “Minarets”. Beyond them you behold a sublime wilderness of mountains, their snowy summits towering together in crowded abundance, peak beyond peak, swelling higher, higher as they sweep on southward, until the culminating point of the range is reached on Mount Whitney...”

What was for Muir one of his most difficult ascents is now for us a delightful and not too hard excursion.

Itinerary
This trip uses the services of the Agnew Meadows Pack Station to get our gear and equipment enabling us to set up a comfortable camp from which to climb. On this trip we take care of the cooking, supply the menu so you can sit back and enjoy the stunning surroundings.

Day One: Hiking the six miles without heavy packs allows us to take an easy leisurely hike up the San Joaquin River from Agnew Meadows, past beautiful Shadow Lake and up to camp in the vicinity of tranquil Lake Ediza.

Day Two: We will take an acclimatization scramble up nearby Volcanic Ridge which has a great view of the Minarets and the entire Ritter range north into the Yosemite High Country. This also preps us for our ascents of Ritter or Banner or both over days three and four.

Day Three and Four: For Mount Banner we will ascend to the Ritter-Banner Saddle via some 3rd class climbing and then make our way up easy talus slopes to the summit. On Mount Ritter we have two choices: The North Face above the Ritter-Banner Saddle: this is the route that John Muir first climbed. Or we can climb the South-east Glacier route which involves more snow climbing. Which one we take will depend upon route conditions and the objectives of group members.

Notes
Guidebooks include Secor's “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails”. We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth or camped at the trailhead campground would do the trick. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.

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