The Dolomites of Italy – Via Ferrata Vacation

During the first worldwar the Dolomites were a fiercely fought and contested area. To supply troops and to fortify positions paths were constructed to the summits of various peaks and plateaus. These fell into disuse after the war, but over the years have been renovated and repaired to provide exciting routes. Not climbing routes as we in the USA think of them , but ways for non climbers to get into technical mountain terrain and to be able to climb with safety. The paths range from easy trails crossing wide ledges to steep technical routes venturing into fifth class climbing terrain. The paths are often equipped with metal ladders up the steep section, rungs here and there for a step and even suspension bridges over narrow, but deep, chasms. All are protected by cables attached with stancions to the rock. The climber is equipped with a pair of fingerless gloves to grip the cables and for protection a special shock absorbing plate with a yoke of rope threaded through it and carabiners to attach the climber to the cables. Should the climber fall the carabiners slide down the cable and stop at the closest stancion. All this means that it is easy to get out and climb freely. In Italy everyone participates in this unique form of mountain climbing and it is not uncommon to see a seventy-year old couple climbing alongside of teenagers, everyone out simply having fun in an incredibly spectacular alpine situation. And even better a number of the routes end at a high alpine hut where a snack and a drink are welcome before heading back to the valleys far below.

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The general outline of this trip parallels our “Footsteps of the Dolomite Masters” program climbing in the Sella Pass and Cortina areas.

Itinerary

The below is a general routine, subject to change.

Day 0 Arrive in Munich.

Day1 First actual day of the trip. We will load up the rental vehicle and drive south into Italy. This is about a four hour drive and takes us across Austria and into the mountains. Our first stop will be in the Sella Pass area. There are many Via Ferrata here to choose from. These range from easy introductions to the hardest routes to be found in the Dolomites such as the Possnecker Path. A little south in the “Rose Garden” are paths that were made famous in the USA by featured in the movie “Cliff Hanger”. (Bad movie, but good scenery).

Day 6 Head over to the Cortina Valley and spend three days climbing here. This area was one of the most violent theaters of war during the First World War and traces still remain with trenches cutting the hillsides. The most unique Via Ferrata here is the Felstunel and one of the weirdest “descents” you will do. Here the Austrians occupied high positions and to dislodge them the Italians constructed several thousand feet of tunnels up to under the position intending to explode huge quantities of dynamite under them. The Austrians were alerted by the noise (does not seem surprising) and vacated, leaving a spiral tunnel that we can descend through the heart of the mountain. Maybe not climbing as we think of it but an interesting step back in time. More typical climbing is the Via Tomaselli with several thousand feet of fixed cables leading to a remote and wild summit.

Day 14 Return to Munich.

Notes
The best guide is “Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites; North, Central and East” by John Smith and Graham Fletcher
There is also a southern section accompanying guide. Get them from Amazon.