Alaska is known as the home of large scary difficult climbs and frigid temperatures. However not all of the range is like this at all. If you have climbed in the lower 48 and have aspirations to climb higher and more challenging peaks in a glaciated environment then Little Switzerland is a fantastic place to start. The peaks are of a manageable size, but also offer challenges at all levels of difficulty and all a short distance from a comfortable basecamp. The rock has a reputation as some of the best in the state and is a fine crystalline granite. As well as climbing peaks we will work on the skills necessary to travel safely on the glaciers, crevasse rescue and route finding as we work to increase your comfort level in this amazing environment. Itinerary Alaskan mountains are big and subject to the extremes of changeable weather. So we need to be flexible and prepared to adapt plans accordingly. So do not consider this following schedule as set in stone! We fly from Talkeetna to the Pika Glacier and establish basecamp here. If you have never taken a small plane to a glacier landing then this in itself is an incredible experience. Camp is on a flat glacier surrounded by towering peaks with snow and ice encrusted ridges and faces every direction you choose to look.

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For two days we will work on skills and moving around on the glaciers before heading up onto the steeper peaks. The skills covered will include.
• Establishing glacier camps
• Roping up for glacier travel
• Route selection on glaciers
• Crevasse rescue
• Climbing techniques for snow and ice
• Crampon technique; both French and frontpointing

Once everyone is comfortable with the skills we will set off to climb and explore the surrounding peaks. The rock in this area is high quality alpine granite and many of the ridges offer spectacular snow climbing. The choices are endless. The classic 5.8 route on Middle Troll, Routes on the Throne, Royal Tower and others.
And if you want a day off from the climbing then the ski touring is superb and the side valley offer great short ski runs and if we have a storm day this is a good way to get out and fill it exploring.

We will be in the snow camping for the entire time and since Alaskan storms are legendary there is the chance of being tent bound for a day or more. So mentally be prepared for this and accept it as a part of the mountain experience.

Notes
The best map is Bradford Washburn’s “Mt. McKinley” 1:50,000 scale.
The best guide is Alaska Climbing by Joe Puryear and published by Supertopo