SIERRA CLASSIC ALPINE ICE CLIMB

Technical difficulty
Technical ice to 50 degrees

ice axe Physical difficulty
Strenuous

Length
1 day

Dates 2010
August 29

September 19 & 26

or custom programs at any time.

Price
$235 per person.

Ratio
1 guide; 3 participants

Prerequisites
You do not need to have climbed steep ice before but ice climbing skills are required. In the fall the snow is often hard and icy but we will not have time to work on self arrest and similar skills so come equipped with these.

Inclusions
Price includes guiding, permits, group climbing gear, tents, kitchen gear, breakfasts, lunches and dinners (you bring hot/cold drinks and snack items). Scheduled dates include USFS trail fees. Private programs do not. Local accommodation is not included.

RESOURCES
Details, itinerary and equipment list
Map
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tel. (760) 873-8526
fax. (760) 873-4800
office@sierramountaincenter.com

Ice Climb North Peak

This is an ideal introduction to the pleasures of steeper snow and ice climbing and with the benefit of a short approach. There are three gullies on the north side of North Peak. Our choice is about six pitches long and up to about 50 degrees in steepness. A short rock scramble takes us to the summit, and an easy descent leads us back to the cars.

Itinerary
This is a long one-day climb. We meet early and plan on a 10 to 12 hour round trip, generally retracing our steps for the return.

We meet at the Saddlebag Lake parking area, trying to get going pretty early for the climb, often at first light, depending on the time of year. The parking area is a couple of miles down the spur road that leads off Highway 120 between Lee Vining and Yosemite Valley just before the Tioga Pass Resort.

We approach via the Saddlebag Lake Trail as it traverses around the lake for a mile before flattening out at the head of the lake near Greenstone Lake. We continue past small lakes and tarns, steadily climbing towards North Peak. We surmount a steep rocky ridge, climb over a loose moraine and we are at the small glacier below the peak.


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We gear up with crampons and pull out axes at this point. Before long we enter the couloir. The bergschrund generally does not present any problems and we belay on ice screws or with rock anchors on the wall of the couloir. There are about six pitches of climbing and ice the gully is hard ice the calves will be crying out by the time we reach the top. On the other hand soft neve will be a lot easier on the legs.

A rest here will revive us and get us ready for the final 300 feet to the top. There is a little low fifth class rock and we emerge pretty close to the summit.

The descent is easy with long sandy slopes back down to Conness Lakes and a glorious descent over rock slabs and through verdant meadows. Then comes the final section back to the parking area.

Notes
Guidebooks include Secor's “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails”, and “Sierra Classics” by Moynier and Fiddler The best of course is “Eastern Sierra Ice” by SP Parker.
Get it from Maximus Press.

We highly recommend that you spend at least one night at moderate altitude (higher than 8,000') just prior to the trip. Spending a night in Mammoth would do the trick or better yet, camped at an even higher trailhead, such as the South Lake/Bishop Pass trailhead for a night just before the trip. Cardinal Village Resort in Bishop Creek near North Lake is also a good lodging option. Please refer to our Planning for Success info sheet for more info.

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