This is one of the classic long gully climbs in the Yosemite high country and an ideal introduction to snow and ice, making a perfect weekend climb. About 1,200 feet long, it often offers snow and ice climbing on 45-degree slopes. The special features of this area include the spectacular colors of the metamorphic rocks and an incredible view of the Yosemite high country from the summit.

Itinerary
Day One: We depart from the parking area at the west end of Ellery Lake a half mile before the Tioga Pass entry station to Yosemite National Park on Highway 120. A half-day hike leads up Glacier Creek through forest and high alpine meadows to camp near Dana Lake. We'll use the balance of the day to review and learn skills and prepare for the next day, a long one.

Day Two: We are gone from camp before dawn working our way around Glacier Lake to the small Dana Glacier at the base of the couloir. We start out moving together putting to use the French crampon technique we discussed the day before.

As the gully steepens and the ice gets harder we move onto our front points and start to use ice screw belays. About six to seven belayed pitches put us at the top of the gully. We then curve up along the summit ridge to the top and relax enjoying the view.

The descent starts easy enough but when we drop off the ridge back into the Glacier Creek it becomes steeper and the rock somewhat looser but eventually we get back to the lake, pick up camp and head down.

We have found the crux of the climb timing things so that we get back down to the Mobil Gas Mart before they close. The MoMart” has gained a reputation for the best food you will ever get at a gas station, and in the eastern Sierra for that matter. Maybe we will have time for one of their Mango Margaritas…

Notes
Guidebooks include Secor's “The High Sierra; Peaks, Passes and Trails”, and “Sierra Classics” by Moynier and Fiddler The best of course is “Eastern Sierra Ice” by SP Parker.
Get it from Maximus Press.

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